A pond, a steepled church, centuries-old houses -- could Cohasset, Mass., be any quainter? Beyond the common, above, the town boasts an ocean shoreline.
A pond, a steepled church, centuries-old houses -- could Cohasset, Mass., be any quainter? Beyond the common, above, the town boasts an ocean shoreline.
Emily D'urso
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Classic New England: Five for the Road

One of the houses overlooking Hingham Bay. The town is home to a 17th-century church built to resemble a ship.
One of the houses overlooking Hingham Bay. The town is home to a 17th-century church built to resemble a ship. (By Lawrence Lindner)
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SLEEPS: Red Lion Inn (see above), in a 300-year-old building with gas fireplaces in the rooms, has doubles starting at $215 a night. Cohasset Harbor Inn (124 Elm St., 781-383-6650, http://www.cohassetharborresort.com/) has doubles facing the harbor starting at $199.

Scituate

Your 15-minute route to the next town over, Scituate (sih-chew-it), will take you past beautiful fields and stone walls, with lovely peeks at the Atlantic and seabirds lounging on rocks along the way. (Take Border Street from Cohasset to Gannett Road, turn left, then right onto Hatherly.)

THE TOUR: Scituate is a little more real-world than Hingham or Cohasset. And that's much of its charm. It has the same kind of museum-quality Colonial and 1800s houses, and some chichi stores and bakeries. But on vibrant Front Street, you'll also find trinket shops, conch shell souvenirs, his-and-hers shamrock mugs and lighthouse Christmas tree ornaments.

One of our favorite diversions is buying a slice of blueberry coffee cake from the Silent Chef, the retail outlet of a local catering company, and walking along the harbor behind Front Street, perching on a bench to watch the boats bob -- very soothing and sleepy-making in warm weather, bracing and invigorating in cold.

Scituate has its own lighthouse, which was used in the War of 1812 to help prevent the British from sacking the town. Unfortunately, forays up the 50-foot tower are possible only occasionally (but the grounds are open all year).

The Lawson Tower also is rarely open but, like the lighthouse, is worth a drive-by. Said to be the most expensive (and most photographed) water tower in the country, the 153-foot edifice was fashioned after a 15th-century castle tower on the Rhine to please the aesthetic sensibilities of one Thomas Lawson's wife, who did not want to have to view an unadorned water tower from her nearby estate.

Before you leave Scituate, take a loop drive around what locals call the First and Second cliffs by turning left onto Edward Foster Road from Front Street. The houses aren't extravagant, but the views of the ocean are.

EATS: Riva (116 Front St., 781-545-5881) has good Italian eats and a convivial atmosphere. Entrees are about $16 to $22. Mill Wharf (150-R Front St., 781-545-3999) has fresh fish dishes and a panoramic view of Scituate Harbor. Entrees start at $17, pub menu specialties $11.

SLEEPS: The Inn at Scituate Harbor (7 Beaver Dam Rd., 800-368-3818, http://www.innatscituateharbor.com/), right in town, has doubles with harbor views starting at $149 midweek, $209 on weekends. Oceanside Inn (8 Oceanside Dr., 781-544-0002, http://www.bnboceansideinn.com/) has doubles with knockout ocean views starting at $99 a night.

Marshfield

As you make your way down Route 3A to Marshfield, another 10 minutes south, you'll enjoy views of marsh and back-river tributaries that feed off the Atlantic, and even a cranberry bog or two. Marshfield, more than any other town on this itinerary, is a study in economic contrasts, with fine old houses on acres of land in Marshfield Hills in the northern part of town and winterized summer cottages nearly falling into the water over by Brant Rock.

THE TOUR: Take a right onto Highland Street soon after you cross from Scituate into Marshfield (a small marina marks the dividing line), then another right onto Union Street. The views of antique homes with land backing up to the North River are worth the detour.

Retracing your steps, head for the Brant Rock area by continuing on 3A south, then veering off to Route 139 east. Brant Rock has a honky-tonk feel, with restaurants such as the Lobster Tale, Venus II and Cosmo's Cafe. At the tip, late Victorian homes are piled together across the road from open ocean. Have a meal on the deck of the Fairview Inn while you gaze at the limitless Atlantic.


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