DETAILS

Newfoundland

(Note: all prices quoted in U.S. dollars.)

GETTING THERE: Air Canada flies from Washington to St. John's via Montreal or Toronto and is quoting a round-trip fare of about $550. You also can travel to the island by ferry from Nova Scotia. Details: Marine Atlantic, 800-341-7981, http://www.marine-atlantic.ca/.

GETTING AROUND: Despite the occasional driving hazards of fog and moose, renting a car is recommended. Major agencies have counters at the St. John's airport; I paid about $35 a day through Avis, with unlimited mileage. Be sure to venture off the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1) to explore coastal fishing villages. If you don't have time to drive to the west coast, Provincial Airlines (800-563-2800, http://www.provair.com/) flies across the island for about $480 round trip; you can rent a car at the Deer Lake airport.

WHEN TO GO: Mid-June through early September.

WHERE TO STAY: St. John's offers many choices. The historic eastern district is quiet, lined with stately Victorian homes and within walking distance of downtown. I stayed at the Maunder Manor B&B (29 Forest Rd., 877-700-5304 ); doubles start at about $55 a night. If you desire a big hotel, the Fairmont Newfoundland is around the corner (115 Cavendish Square, 800-441-1414, http://www.fairmont.com/; doubles from about $270 a night). If you visit Cape St. Mary's, spend the night in St. Bride's. The Atlantica Inn and Restaurant (Route 100, 709-337-2860 or 709-337-2861) has doubles for about $50 a night.

On the Avalon Peninsula, Blueberry Hill B&B (Route 80, Cavendish, 877-588-2026, http://www.blueberrybb.com/) is a good base for exploring fishing villages, including Heart's Content. Doubles start at about $80 a night. In Trinity, Campbell House B&B (49 High St., 877-464-7700, http://www.artisaninntrinity.com/) offers a variety of accommodations in historic buildings. Doubles start at about $100 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: In St. John's, Velma's Place (264 Water St., 709-576-2264) offers traditional Newfoundland cuisine, with entrees from about $13 to $27. The Fairmont's Bonavista restaurant (see above) features a fixed-price three-course traditional dinner for $29. Across from the Fairmont is the Classic Cafe East (73 Duckworth St., 709-726-4444, http://www.classiccafeeast.com/); dinner entrees $10 to $22. The Atlantica Inn and Restaurant (see above) is your best bet in St. Bride's, with entrees less than $10. Don't miss the moose soup. Fran's Kitchen (Dildo, Rigolet) is a popular cafe with entrees from $7 to $12. Dock Marina (Trinity, follow the signs, 709-464-2133, http://www.atlanticadventures.com/restaurant.htm) has dinner entrees from $9 to $16; you can walk onto its wharf to select a lobster fresh out of the trap.

WHAT TO DO:

* The Rooms (9 Bonaventure Ave., St. John's, 709-757-8000, http://www.therooms.ca/) is a stunning new cultural center that houses the provincial museum, art gallery and archives; $4.50.

* The Johnson Geo Centre (75 Signal Hill Rd., St. John's, 709-737-7880, http://www.geocentre.ca/) provides an introduction to Newfoundland's geology; $9.25 (access to outdoor rock garden is free).

* Salmonier Nature Park (Route 90, 709-229-7189, http://www.env.gov.nl.ca/snp) rehabilitates or provides a home for injured and aging wildlife in a natural setting; $2.70.

* Screech-Ins are offered in a variety of venues throughout Newfoundland, including pubs and cruises. You may kiss a dead cod or a plush-toy puffin. I went for the dead fish at Christian's Bar (23 George St., St. John's, 709-753-9100); $11.

* Witless Bay Ecological Reserve ( http://www.env.gov.nl.ca/parks/wer/r_wbe/index.html) is accessible only by boat. Cruises leave from Bay Bulls on Route 10, less than an hour's drive from St. John's. O'Brien's Whale and Bird Tours (877-639-4253, http://www.obriensboattours.com/) charges $45 for a two-hour cruise.

* Cape St. Mary's Ecological Reserve (Route 100, Cape St. Mary's, 709-277-1666, http://www.env.gov.nl.ca/parks/wer/r_csme/index.html) has gannets, other seabirds, whales; $4.50.

* Gros Morne National Park (709-458-2417, http://www.parkscanada.gc.ca/grosmorne), a UNESCO World Heritage Site on the west coast, sponsors interpretive activities and exhibits. Some of the oldest and oddest rocks on the planet are here, including a stranded piece of ocean crust. Daily park pass $8.

INFORMATION: Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism, 800-563-6353, http://www.newfoundlandandlabradortourism.com/.

-- P.S.