DETAILS

Maryland Wine Country

Maryland has 20 wineries open to the public, with more on the way. The vineyards are concentrated in four main regions: the Piedmont Plateau in Central Maryland, the Eastern Shore, the Southern Plain and the Western Mountain. Each area is known for certain grapes, dictated by the climate and terrain. For example, the Piedmont Plateau is associated with cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc, chardonnay and pinot gris. The Eastern Shore grows pinot noir, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and vidal. The Southern Shore is dominated by southern Italian and Mediterranean varieties, and the Western Mountain region offers Norton/Cynthiana, vidal, seyval, deChaunac, foch and cabernet franc. For more info on Maryland wine country: Maryland Wineries Association, 800-237-9463, http://www.marylandwine.com/.

WINE TRAILS: Maryland has two organized trails, the Mason-Dixon Wine Trail ( http://www.masondixonwinetrail.com/) and the new Frederick Wine Trail ( http://www.frederickwinetrail.com). The former route consists of four wineries in Maryland and four in Pennsylvania; the latter covers five wineries, with one more, Black Ankle Vineyards, to be added next year.

FREDERICK WINERIES: I followed Frederick County's 30-mile wine trail, starting in Mount Airy, just over an hour from Washington. I began at Loew Vineyards (14001 Liberty Rd., Mount Airy, 301-831-5464, http://www.loewvineyards.net/) for a tour and free tasting, followed by Elk Run Vineyards (15113 Liberty Rd., Mount Airy, 410-775-2513; tasting of six wines costs $2 or eight for $4), Frederick Cellars (221 N. East St., 301-668-0311, Frederick, http://www.frederickcellars.com/; $2 for a five-wine tasting), Berrywine Plantations/Linganore Winecellars (13601 Glissans Mill Rd., Mount Airy, 410-795-6432, http://www.linganorewines.com/; free) and Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard (18125 Comus Rd., Dickerson, 301-605-0130, http://www.smvwinery.com/; $2). Check hours before you go. The wineries also hold special events, such as Elk Run's Wine Down Friday, with live music and vineyard sunsets.

WHERE TO EAT: The Tasting Room (101 N. Market St., Frederick, 240-379-7772) has a long wine list that complements high-end entrees including local rockfish ($31.95) and filet mignon ($33.95) and such lighter fare as cauliflower soup ($5.95) and arugula and watercress salad with lime dressing ($7.95). Acacia (129 N. Market St., Frederick, 301-694-3015), whose wines come from near (Dickerson) and far (Lebanon), offers Asian-French fusion: Cambodian tomato soup, wok-seared garlic noodles, orange peel chicken. Dishes run from $10 to $26. Brewer's Alley Restaurant & Brewery (124 N. Market St., Frederick, 301-631-0089) has cheese-stuffed pretzels, pizzas from $10 and the brew pub's own boozy creations. In Dickerson, the Comus Inn (23900 Old Hundred Rd., 301-349-5100) has views of Sugarloaf Mountain and upscale entrees such as seafood cioppino ($34).

WHERE TO SLEEP: The Inn at Buckeystown (3521 Buckeystown Pike, Buckeystown, 800-272-1190), an easy drive to the wineries and downtown Frederick, has eight rooms so filled with antiques, art and patterns, the experience is almost psychedelic. For a $5 corkage fee, the inn will set up a BYOW party for sleepover guests. Rates from $115 double per night. The Hill House B&B (12 W. Third St., 301-682-4111, http://www.itlink.com/hillhouse/1.html) is a 19th-century Victorian home in Frederick's historic district. Each of the four rooms has a distinct theme, such as the Mexican room with hand-painted furniture and ethnic art. From $105.

INFO: Tourism Council of Frederick County, 800-999-3613, http://www.fredericktourism.org/.

-- A.S.