DETAILS

Virginia Wine Country

Virginia has more than 100 wineries open to the public for tours and tastings, which are generally free or inexpensive. Several of the larger wineries have their own restaurants and lodgings. Even the smaller places organize dinners and special wine-focused events.

The wineries are in just about every agricultural part of the state. Most are open weekends from about noon until about 5 p.m. in the summer. No reservations are necessary except for groups. In midweek or during other times of the year, check in advance to make sure tastings are available. The Virginia Wineries Association's well-organized Web site (see below) provides directions, contact information and maps.

Don't rely solely on those maps, though. Many of the wineries are off the main roads. Special state highway signs, painted with purple grape bunches, mark the way. But a highly detailed road map, such as ADC's State Road Atlas, is a big help.

If you're interested in sampling Virginia wines but don't want to bother with a road trip, Vintage Virginia, a wine festival with performers, craft vendors and samples from more than 50 wineries, runs through 6 p.m. today at Bull Run Regional Park, 14925 Compton Rd., Centreville. Tickets cost $25 at the gate, including a glass and unlimited tastings. (Designated drivers pay $14.) Details: http://www.vintagevirginia.com/.

GETTING AROUND: There are six organized wine trails, including the Blue Ridge WineWay and Loudoun's Wine Trail in Northern Virginia. These help narrow your choices geographically, but don't expect, for instance, to visit all 11 of the Blue Ridge wineries in one or two days.

While the wineries on each trail are relatively close to each other, Virginia is not the Napa Valley, where vineyards line the main roads as far as you can see and distances are short and easy to bicycle. The Virginia businesses are miles apart, sometimes on very hilly roads. You will want to drive, whether it's by car, motorcycle or rented limo.

If you're driving, take traffic conditions into account. Interstate 66 can back up even far outside the Beltway. Route 29 at Gainesville is particularly bad when there is a concert at Nissan Pavilion. One note: Gasoline prices drop sharply when you get far enough west. Last weekend, self-service regular cost about 25 cents less per gallon in Prince William and Fauquier counties than it did in the District.

WHERE TO STAY: If you base your tour in Washington, Va., as we did, the premiere lodging is at the Inn at Little Washington (Middle and Main streets, 540-675-3800, http://www.theinnatlittlewashington.com/). It has the premiere prices, too: Rooms start at $410 per night midweek and go up, up, up from there. But at least the price includes breakfast. Guests are guaranteed dinner reservations, although the cost of dinner is separate.

There are a handful of other bed-and-breakfasts within walking distance of the inn. None offers budget accommodations, but you may find a room for about half what the inn would charge. These B&Bs include Heritage House (291 Main St., 888-819-8280, http://www.heritagehousebb.com/); Foster Harris House (189 Main St., 800-666-0153, http://www.fosterharris.com/); Middleton Inn (176 Main St., 800-816-8157, http://www.middletoninn.com/); Gay Street Inn (160 Gay St., 540-675-3288, http://www.gaystreetinn.com/) and Fairlea Farm (636 Mount Salem Ave., 540-675-3679, http://www.fairleafarm.com/).

Elsewhere in wine areas, you will find B&Bs near many towns. Weekend reservations are often essential. Bigger cities -- Warrenton, Culpeper and Charlottesville, for instance -- also have the usual chain hotels.

WHERE TO EAT: For non-guests, the Inn at Little Washington accepts dinner reservations up to a month in advance. Weeknight dinners are $148 per person, Friday and Sunday $158 and Saturday $168. Tasting menus, kitchen seating and special events are more. Prices do not include beverages, tax or tip. Four and Twenty Blackbirds (650 Zachary Taylor Hwy., Flint Hill, 540-675-1111, http://www.fourandtwenty.com/) also comes highly recommended.

Many wineries encourage picnics. For a classy spread, try Epicurious Cow (13830 Lee Hwy., Amissville, 540-675-2269, http://www.epicuriouscow.com/), a little high-end grocery that sells produce, meat, fish and organic burritos. It's almost like someone put a little bit of Dean & DeLuca in Rappahannock County. It's easy to whiz by the turn into the parking lot off Route 211, six miles from Washington.

WHAT ELSE TO DO: Montpelier, James Madison's home, is in the midst of a major renovation to restore it to the condition it was in when the fourth president and his family lived there. Right now, most of the house is at the stage where wooden lath has been nailed up but plastering has not begun, so the old structure is visible without decoration. Tours cost $12 and include a slide presentation detailing the history of the estate and the changes planned.

INFORMATION: Virginia Wineries Association, http://www.virginiawines.org/.

-- M.H.