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Twilight for Amish Market

At the Dutch Country Farmers Market in Burtonsville, baker Ben Stolzfus rolls out dough under the watchful eyes of his daughter Suzanne, 5. (Photos By James M. Thresher -- The Washington Post)
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The crowd the market draws is eclectic.

On a recent Thursday, three Montgomery firefighters waited at the rotisserie chicken and spareribs stand as a man in a business suit scoped out whoopie pies while chatting on a cellphone. An older couple savored their fried chicken, while a teenage girl dressed in black with heavy eyeliner and knee-high leather boots clomped out the door with a fresh pie.

Amish children -- the boys in straw hats and black pants held up with suspenders, the girls in dark, plain dresses, aprons and white caps -- clutched bags from the nearby CVS and played behind the baked-goods counter.

Dwight and Sondra Hyman said they've been driving from Hyattsville for 10 years for Beiler's bacon.

"I know it's coming from the farm," said Sondra Hyman, 65, as she waited at the counter. "I know what I'm getting."

Next to her, Mark Thrasher, 51, spoke up. "I love this place," Thrasher told Hyman. "They've got to find a place to go. They can't close up."

For many shoppers, the market -- one of several in Maryland (including one in Germantown and another in Annapolis) -- provides a connection with a private culture encountered most often from a distance as its horse-drawn buggies clop along Lancaster County roads. The Amish workers chat with customers but say they don't get many questions, such as: If Amish culture limits their use of modern conveniences such as electricity, why do they use the market's ovens, refrigerators and lights? Because, Beiler said, they're using them in a leased building. The same goes for the market telephones.

"You can't have gas lanterns hanging around and pass fire inspection," Beiler said.

He and other vendors said they hope their new home will be bigger to better handle the crowds. If the fervor of their current customers holds, the crowds will come, regardless of where they end up.


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