DETAILS

Lima, Peru

GETTING THERE: Service to Lima is available on several airlines at all three Washington area airports. American (through Miami) and Delta (through Atlanta) offer the fastest service, but even on their flights you should plan on 16 hours door-to-door. Round-trip prices begin at about $500, but expect to pay between $600 and $800. At Jorge Chavez International Airport, get a cab at a stand inside the airport; the fare is $20 for a 25- to 30-minute ride to Miraflores. The cabs outside are cheaper but sometimes less trustworthy.

STAYING SAFE AND GETTING AROUND: Miraflores is safe by contrast with some other districts of Lima, but as in any large city, exercise caution. Tourists rarely encounter violent crime in Miraflores, but petty crime is common. Women should guard their purses closely and men should not put wallets in rear pockets; a money clip in a front pocket is better.

Most of the restaurants listed here are within two miles of most hotels; walking is pleasant by day, a bit riskier by night. If you take a cab, be sure to get one with the "Taxi" sign prominently displayed. The yellow and/or white cabs are safest. Establish the fare before you get into a cab. Expect to pay a precio gringo (gringo price), but it will add only a couple of soles (65 cents) to a ride that won't cost more than $2.50. Tip only if service is exceptional.

WHERE TO STAY: Yes, the J.W. Marriott Hotel and Casino (Av. Malecon de la Reserva 615, telephone 011-51-1-217-7000, http://marriott.com/hotels/travel/limdt-jw-marriott-hotel-lima) is part of a big American chain, but the hotel has spectacular ocean views and service to match. Rooms start at about $200 per night double. Hotel Ariosto (La Paz 769, 011-51-1-444-1414, http://www.hotelariosto.com.pe) is comfortable and centrally located, a 10-minute walk from Astrid y Gastón; $75 to $140. Hostal Torreblanca (Pardo 1453, 011-51-1-447-0142), a hostel a few blocks from the center of Miraflores, is clean and welcoming, and offers some frills, including continental breakfast and various services; $35 to $65.

WHERE TO EAT: In addition to the restaurants in the accompanying article, here are others of comparable quality. Peru has a 19 percent sales tax, so keep that in mind as you calculate the cost of your meal.

· Haiti, Av. Diagonal 160. Right across from Parque Kennedy in the heart of Miraflores, this is as close as Lima gets to a Left Bank cafe. The food is inexpensive ($20 for two, wine included) and inconsistent, but people mainly go there to sit outside, sip coffee or wine and gossip.

· La Fonda, San Fernando 380. Excellent pizzas (with a Peruvian twist) and other Italian dishes. An easy walk from the Marriott. Quiet at lunch but busy after 9 p.m. $25-30 for two, wine included.

· La Mas Antigua (also known as Dalmacia), San Fernando 401. Across the street from La Fonda and run by the same people, this is a wildly popular neighborhood spot that few tourists know. Standard Peruvian dishes, all very well done (especially the causa with tomato and avocado), other dishes from the Mediterranean, and an excellent wine list. Prices range from cheap ($20 or less for two at lunch) to moderate ($40 for two at dinner, wine included).

· La Rosa Nautica, Espigon #4, Circuito de Playas. Situated on a pier that juts into the Pacific, this restaurant has unbeatable views, including those seen through glass floors. The food is very good -- especially the seafood -- and very expensive by Peruvian standards: $50 to $100 for two, wine included.

· Manolo, Av. Larco 608. The best sandwiches in Lima, especially a club (about $6) that's more than a meal. But be warned: Club sandwiches in Peru usually include a fried egg, so if that's not to your taste, ask for the club "sin huevo." Manolo is famous for its unbelievable churros -- Latino crullers, fried and sugared dough cylinders stuffed with chocolate or dulce con leche. $10 to $20 for two, without wine.

· Mavery, Av. Del Ejercito. Empanadas to die for, so light you hardly know you're eating dough, all stuffed with ethereal fillings; try the onion and cheese. Also criollo classics and pizzas. The hard wooden seats are unforgiving. $10 to $20 for two, without wine.

· Restaurant Huaca Pucllana, General Borgoño, Block 8. Classic Peruvian food with many nouvelle twists, served in surroundings that can only be called amazing: The restaurant abuts a 1,500-year-old huaca (tomb) that is Miraflores's most important archaeological site. Excellent food at high prices: $50 to $100 for two, wine included, more if you go for a high-end wine.

· Rincon Chami, Esperanza 154. Limeños call this a hole in the wall, but they love it; get there for lunch before 1 or you won't find a table. This is where you go for inexpensive, authentic criollo cuisine, including causa ($1.90), lomo saltado (the famous beef, tomato and potato dish, $6.35) and papa rellena (mashed potato stuffed with ground beef, egg and spices, $2.50).

· Trattoria di Mambrino, Manuel Bonilla 106. World-class Italian food, and unbelievable desserts made by the co-proprietor, Sandra Plevisiani, who's almost as celebrated in Peru as Gastón Acurio. The house lasagna is unlike any you've ever eaten, and probably better. $30 to $90 for two, wine included.

INFORMATION: For general information, "Fodor's Peru" ($19.95) is the best guidebook. Good Web sites include the official government site, PromPeru ( http://www.peru.info/perueng.asp), the Peru Guide ( http://www.theperuguide.com/lima.html) and V!VA ( http://www.vivatravelguides.com/south-america/peru/lima). -- J.Y.