Shake Up Baking

Daring Hues and Non-Traditional Toppers Enliven Wedding Cakes

Selecting the most important dessert of one's life used to be a simple procedure. After all, wedding cakes were always three things: round, tiered and white. But the classic bride and groom topper has toppled from its former popularity, shapes are shifting and color is creeping in. It's a whole new world of bridal baked goods, which means engaged couples have their work (and several layered slices) cut out for them.

"The cake is my number three or four priority, somewhere after the venue and flowers. I want something that stands out," said 27-year-old Saleena Jain while flipping through books of pictures during an open house at Silver Spring's Creative Cakes two weeks ago. "I like the idea of tiers connected with a bridge."

A similar passion for personalization is spreading, noted Narcisa Vieira-Castillo of Cakes Unique (703-533-0649, cakes-unique.com), whose specialty is fantastical creations. "People are thinking about the cake as an integral part of the theme," she explained. "They want cakes in different shapes. I had one client who wanted one in the shape of the Guggenheim."

It's hip to be square, according to Spencer Biles, owner of Creative Cakes (8814 Brookville Rd., Silver Spring; 301-587-1599; creativecakes.com). His offerings include confections resembling stacks of boxes topped with ribbon, or clients can slip a square tier or two into a traditional round cake. And at the Great Bridal Expo at the Renaissance Hotel downtown earlier this month, 29-year-old bride-to-be Rhacquel Munsayac gushed about going hexagonal with her raspberry-filled almond cake: "It's a Martha Stewart-type thing."

Even when couples stick to circular styles, they're often bold about hue. "People aren't afraid of color anymore," said Leslie Goldman-Poyourow of Fancy Cakes By Leslie (253 Market Street West, Gaithersburg; 301-548-9390; fancycakesbyleslie.com). "I've done fluorescents -- bright salmon orange with edible gold flowers, she said. "That's a cake you'd notice." Bridesmaids' dress colors -- pink, sage, celadon -- are ending up on the frosting, too. And designs are getting increasingly elaborate, with couples requesting intricate detailing; Poyourow noted that Henna looks are all the rage.

"People used to want vanilla cake and buttercream frosting, and now they're asking for chocolate-mousse filling and a cake that's avocado green or light purple," agreed Devlin DiBitetto of Hollin Hall Pastry Shop (7920 Fort Hunt Rd., Alexandria; 703-768-9643; hollinhallpastry.com).

These wild final products aren't just wowing guests in the reception hall, Poyourow said. Unlike white cakes with white frosting that can wash out in pictures, bright concoctions continue to make a splash in the photo album. To make sure the cakes are seen in their full glory, couples are even ordering special lighting.

Appearances aren't the only concern, of course. Although stiff, smooth fondant icing is often required for bolder colors and designs (Vieira-Castillo says she's getting more and more requests), it tends to be easier on the eyes than the taste buds. When Allyson Leven and Alain Taylor walked into Creative Cakes' open house, they were set on fondant until they heard what Biles had to say: "Fondant tastes like edible Play-Doh. It's just sugar and water." After a taste test, Taylor vetoed it.

Plain old yellow cake is facing stiff competition from flavor newcomers, like mandarin orange from Creative Cakes and Cakes Unique's passion fruit. Poyourow's lime curd filling is hot this summer, and she's recently been overwhelmed with orders for carrot cake. "I have no idea why, but that's how trends happen," she said.

The most universal trend seems to be non-traditional toppers. Creative Cakes has a shelf of them, but Biles admitted they're just for show. Unless someone has an antique miniature bride and groom that's passed through the family, virtually everyone is opting for something else.

A bouquet has become the new standard, but Vieira-Castillo gets a fair number of requests for edible sculptures and monograms. A Doctor Seuss-meets-Alexander Calder wire construction tops one design; three intertwined gold mandalas grace another. Her most memorable creation? One she created of Marge and Homer Simpson in full wedding regalia.

Toppers are an issue couples don't have to deal with at all if they choose a cupcake tree. It's is a popular alternative at several spots, especially Cakelove, the bakery on U Street and in Silver Spring known for its bite-sized delights (see cakelove.com for info). Chris Spinosa, head baker at the U Street location, said couples are going the cupcake route to offer guests a greater variety of flavors. Plus, it helps that they average out to $2.75 each, a bargain considering the bakery's wedding cakes start at $4.50 per person.

Lori Hodo, who spotted a cupcake tree at the Creative Cakes open house, was intrigued. "I like the idea, but it's hard to cut a cupcake together," she said.

Tradition may be fun to mess with, but it's not licked yet. Except off a plate.