Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Around the corner from the entrance to Clarendon's new Liberty Tavern sits Liberty To-Go, the restaurant's takeout counterpart. Not much bigger than a walk-in closet, the place allows diners to pick up pizzas and panini as late as 1 a.m. on weekends and order off the full menu during dinner service.

Co-owner Stephen Fedorchak, who, like his business partners, lives near the restaurant, says he hopes neighbors will see the 65-seat Liberty Tavern as a comfortable place to dine and enjoy a glass of wine. "But if you want to pick up a $10 margherita pizza, we're there for you, too," he said.

Behind Liberty To-Go's small counter, cooks rapidly shape pizzas and slide them into a tiled wood-burning oven, then pull them out, nicely crisped, several minutes later. The standout of the pies is topped with Vermont cheddar, tart Granny Smith apple slices, thick prosciutto, caramelized onion and a sprinkling of sage leaves ($13). Also a worthy bet is the version topped with crushed tomatoes, mozzarella and house-made linguica laced with cumin and guajillo peppers ($12).

A lineup of three panini, served with small salads, offers good choices for a simple supper. Their hearty white bread is made in-house. The Smithfield ham and white cheddar panini ($9) is delightfully salty and rendered even richer by a swipe of mayonnaise. Cheese lovers will appreciate the grilled cheese panini ($8), which delivers a double layer of melted mozzarella and American cheddar.

And don't overlook chef Liam LaCivita's full dinner menu. Hanger steak ($20) is served with a rich potato-leek gratin; the tiny ridges of cavatelli pasta ($9 for a small portion) are perfect conduits for a spicy tomato sauce, dotted with meatballs and cherry tomatoes.

-- Amanda McClements

Liberty To-Go, 3195 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, enter on North Irving Street; 703-465-9360. Hours: Monday through Thursday, 4 to 11:30 p.m.; Friday, 4 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Saturday, 3 p.m. to 1 a.m.; Sunday, 3 to 10 p.m.