Grilling by the Book: Tips From the Experts

Grilling experts were particularly generous this year, peppering their recipe collections with good advice. Here are some basics for both novices and seasoned cooks:

From "The River Cottage Meat Book," by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall (Ten Speed Press, 2007):

· Don't cook over flames; cook over embers.

· Trim off as much fat and remove as much excess marinade as possible to avoid flare-ups that tend to leave sooty deposits on grilled food.

From "World Grilling," by Denis Kelly (Sasquatch, 2007), and "The Complete Meat Cookbook," by Bruce Aidells and Denis Kelly (Houghton Mifflin, 1998):

· Cover kettle grills during cooking and use the vents to regulate heat and control flare-ups. Open vents to raise the temperature; close vents to reduce it.

· Prepare three temperature zones on your grill: high heat (two to three layers of coals), medium heat (one layer) and an area around the edges with no coals. Sear meat over the high area, then move to the medium area to finish cooking or to the no-coal zone to keep fully cooked pieces warm while the others finish. Food kept in the no-coal area will continue to cook, so don't leave it too long.

From "10 Easy Ways to Master the Grill," by Steven Raichlen, Food & Wine, June 2007:

· Align the food on your grill in a neat row with soldierly precision. That helps you keep track of which foods went on the fire first, so you can turn them and take them off in order.

· For steaks, chops and chicken, poke the meat with your finger. If it feels soft and squishy, it's rare; if you feel it yield, it's medium-rare; if it yields slightly, it's medium; if firm and springy, well-done. For larger cuts, use an instant-read thermometer (even barbecue pros use them). Don't let it touch any bones, or you'll get a false reading.

From the Southern Living "Ultimate Grilling and BBQ Guide," a special-edition magazine now on newsstands:

· Buying ribs is easy if you know what to look for. Single-slab packages allow you to see all sides of the ribs. Look for as much meat and as little fat as possible. Before grilling, carefully remove the thin membrane on the back of the ribs. That will allow smoke and rubs to penetrate the meat better and will make for more tender ribs.

Beef ribs have large bones with lots of meat. They require a long cooking time over indirect heat to ensure tenderness. Baby back ribs have lots of meat between their short bones. Spareribs have the least amount of meat, and, because they're less tender than other ribs, they might take a bit longer to cook. However, they are considered the most flavorful.

From "Rethinking Blackened Red Snapper," by Sandra Wu, Cook's Illustrated, June 2007:

· To get the best results when grilling fish, follow these steps: 1. Keep fish refrigerated until ready to grill; 2. Prepare the grill for cleaning by placing a disposable aluminum pan upside down over the hot side of the grill; cover and heat for 5 minutes; 3. Scrape the hot grate clean with a grill brush, then wipe the grate clean with oil-dipped paper towels; 4. Place the fish perpendicular to the grill grate, with the skin side down; 5. Slide one spatula underneath the fish to lift, and use a second spatula to support it while it's being turned over.

From Country Living, July 2007:

· For best results using marinades: 1. Any marinade that has come in contact with raw meat or poultry should be boiled for at least 2 minutes (if it is to be used as a sauce or further component in the dish); 2. Avoid using copper, cast-iron or aluminum dishes, because the metals can react with the acids and affect flavor.