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UVB radiation -- the kind that gives you a sunburn -- is still the main focus in the sunscreen world, but it's only part of the equation. Newer products also include protection against UVA rays -- the kind that, years after exposure, gives you wrinkly, leather-bag skin and, like UVB, can lead to skin cancer.
A handful of new ingredients -- and some tried-and-true ones -- ward off damaging rays from the UVA end of the ultraviolet spectrum. But the Food and Drug Administration, which regulates sunscreens, has yet to finalize its rules on UVA-blocking products and effectiveness ratings. Meanwhile, here's what's new under the sun:
Mexoryl: David Leffell, professor of dermatology and surgery at the Yale University School of Medicine and author of "Total Skin" (Hyperion, 2000), says this ingredient, patented by L'Oreal and used in Europe since 1993, is very good and covers a broader spectrum of radiation than most UVA blocks.
But so far in the United States, the only FDA-approved product that contains it is a facial moisturizer. (Anthelios SX daily moisturizing cream: 3.4 ounces; $29.99.) Other Mexoryl products can be found on the Internet, but they're not FDA-approved.
Avobenzone: Neutrogena's proprietary formula Helioplex is one of several products that contain the UVA blocker avobenzone. Helioplex pairs avobenzone with oxybenzone to make it photostable; otherwise, avobenzone degrades quickly in the sun. Helioplex works fine, Leffell says, if you ignore the label's "long-acting" claim. With any sunscreen, he says, "you need to reapply it every couple of hours." Same with waterproof claims, he adds.
Johnson & Johnson's Aveeno avobenzone sunscreens include a lotion formulated for babies. (Neutrogena Fresh Cooling Body Mist Sunblock Spray: 5 ounces; about $10. Aveeno Baby Continuous Protection Sunblock: 4 ounces; about $10.)
Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide: Both of these old standby "physical" sunblocks protect against both UVA and UVB radiation by reflecting the rays away from the skin. New micronized formulations do away with the white-nose look.
Both are used in tons of products and are thought to be less irritating to the skin than chemical sunblocks. (Blue Lizard SPF 30+ Sensitive Sunscreen: 5 ounces; $10.95.)
-- Jennifer Huget
