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Walk This Way
Estaing, with its hilltop chateau, stone streets and bridges and cafe terraces overlooking the Lot River, is one of many picturesque villages on the Compostelle trail in southwest France.
(Robert V. Camuto)
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She said in French that she would be coming back another time to continue the trail.
"I'm a pilgrim," she said, her crystalline green eyes beaming. "I believe in miracles."
For pilgrims of old, Conques was a major stopover. For us, it was the end of the line.
We awoke there to the cries of roosters and brilliant sunlight that lit up the heights of the town. After breakfast, conditioned now as we were to walking, we took a stroll to the edge of town. We watched as groups of hikers continued on the road and then banked and disappeared in the trees.
It was odd. I was glad to have finished our goal and to be going home. Yet at the same time, I felt the pull of the road and wanted to keep going.
I thought of a phrase I had read on a French trekkers' Web site: "You don't take the road of Compostelle. It takes you."
Robert V. Camuto, a writer and author living in France, is a frequent contributor to Travel.
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