Sunday, July 8, 2007

There are many possible itineraries on the Compostelle trail in France and Spain. Here's the route my family and I followed, on a portion of the trail chosen for its scenery, villages and ease of hiking.

· Day 1. Arrive in the town of Nasbinals. The Bastide family operates three hotels catering to hikers (telephone 011-33-4-66-32-50-03, http://www.bastide-nasbinals.com). Half- board (accommodation, dinner and breakfast) in season is $66 per person double.

· Day 2. Hike to Saint-Chely-d'Aubrac (10.5 miles, four to five hours). Stay at the small, tidy Hotel de la Vallee (011-33-5-65-44-27-40). Half-board is $63 in season per person in a double room. English-speaking.

· Day 3. Hike to Espalion (13.6 miles, six to seven hours), a busy town of about 4,300 inhabitants with a famed 12th-century church, a 16th-century palace-turned-museum and a landmark pink stone bridge. The climb near the end of this day to an old quarry and peak overlooking the town makes it a bit hard. The Hotel Moderne (27 Boulevard de Guizzard, 011-33-5-65-44-05-11, http://www.hotelmoderne12.com) has a central location, but it's at a busy intersection, so request a room facing away from the street. Half-board starts at $56 per person. For those who prefer the quiet countryside, continue about 1.8 miles, or 45 minutes, to the hamlet of Saint-Pierre-de-Bessuejouls. Stay at the Domaine d'Armagnac (011-33-5-65-48-20-71, http://www.domaine-armagnac.com), a well-restored 18th-century former convent. Double rooms are $100. Dinner is $23 plus beverages. English-speaking.

· Day 4. Hike to Estaing (6.8 miles, three to four hours). Stay at Aux Armes D'Estaing (1 Quai du Lot, 011-33-5-65-44-70-02, http://www.estaing.net), which was our best hotel-dining experience of this itinerary. Half-board is $67 per person. English-speaking.

· Day 5. Hike to Espeyrac (15.5 miles, six to seven hours), a quiet valley town. No-frills, slightly worn accommodations can be found at the Hotel de la Vallee (011-33-5-65-69-87-61). Half-board starts at $45 per person. Those with the energy to continue should consider walking an additional hour to Senergues and staying at the Domaine de Senos (011-33-5-65-72-91-56, http://www.gites-aveyron.com), a brightly decorated renovated former convent where half-board is $44 per person. English-speaking.

· Day 6. Hike to Conques (eight miles, three to four hours) and plan for an active all-afternoon visit to the abbey, church and treasury. The monastery, Abbaye Sainte Foy (011-33-5-65-69-89-43), runs a hotel where doubles start at $38. Dinner is $15. We enjoyed less monastic accommodations in a rustic but comfortable room and had a delicious dinner at the Auberge Saint Jacques (011-33-5-65-72-86-36). Half-board is $63 per person.

-- R.V.C.