First Bite
A Stylish Facelift, With a Few Wrinkles
A wine trolley graces the Mayflower hotel's renovated Lobby Court lounge, an ideal perch for people watching.
(By Lucian Perkins -- The Washington Post)
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As part of the Mayflower hotel's $11 million renovation of its public spaces earlier this year, the Lobby Court bar (1127 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-347-3000) was the beneficiary of a snazzy facelift. Situated just off the entrance and across from the reception desk, the 40-seat lounge now lures us in with a soothing palette of lime green (sofa), burnt orange (chairs) and mustard yellow (bar stools), plus a handsome wine trolley parked front and center.
Anyone who appreciates a nice glass of wine will find it hard not to check out the bottles of white chilling in a drum of ice or the bottles of red riding the rim of the cart; altogether, there are 20 or so international wines available by the glass. (The concept is making the number crunchers happy: According to a hotel spokesman, revenue from this sliver of real estate has more than doubled.)
The fresh design fits neatly into the old. Geometric metal shapes dangle from both sides of the bar -- earrings for a giantess. But the lobby's vast skylight continues to let us pretend we're drinking alfresco. Another plus: If you want a see-and-be-scene, the lounge is the place to perch. Set off from the indoor flow of traffic by eye-level glass dividers, the retreat allows sippers and nibblers to rubberneck ("Hey, isn't that. . . ?") with discretion.
Too bad I don't see the same effort in the Lobby Court's small food menu, which is executed by the kitchen staff of the Mayflower's more formal Cafe Promenade a short stroll away, down the carpeted hall. While there's something for everyone on the list, there's not much anyone is likely to return for. Clam chowder is meaty with seafood and potatoes, but it appears to have bypassed any shaker or grinder. Chopped lobster, celery and mayonnaise find their way into a long -- and boring -- bun. The filling is pleasant enough, but there's so little lobster salad, the sandwich, Maine Lobster En-Bun, ought to be renamed "Essence of Maine Lobster." Batons of beets nestle in pale pink tomato cups that were supposed to be grilled but aren't.
Service is a problem, too. Appetizers and entrees are apt to show up simultaneously, crowding the tiny tables, and servers sometimes don't bother to check in after their arrival. If anyone had, I would have sent back my pallid, ice-cold sushi.
Dishes $6.25-$15.75.


