Dish

STARTING ANEW: Calls to Dahlia (4849 Massachusetts Ave. NW) now refer would-be diners to chef David Scribner's cellphone: In other words, the Spring Valley restaurant has closed.

"The last year has been challenging," the 39-year-old chef concedes, referring to his sudden decision late last month to close the modern American restaurant, which would have been two years old in August. Despite a "great clientele," "busy weekends" and little competition in the neighborhood, Scribner, a first-time restaurant owner, says a combination of high real estate assessments, the proliferation of high-profile restaurants downtown and an attempt "to do everything myself" contributed to his restaurant's demise.

The loss leaves a hole. During its short run, Dahlia seduced food lovers and monied social types with succulent roast chicken, scallop-laced pizza, and tuna staged with sticky rice on a moat of wasabi-fired creme fraiche.

But "all's not lost," says the chef, a co-owner of the wildly popular sandwich purveyor Jetties (1609 Foxhall Rd. NW). Hoping to capture a different but significant demographic in Spring Valley -- young families and students -- Scribner has joined forces with Bo Blair, one of his two partners in Jetties, to open a similar "fast-casual" enterprise. Their idea involves a lively bar scene, good beers, TVs, pizza, burgers, chopped salads -- and the old Dahlia space, renovated.

Nothing has been signed. No deals have been made to secure the spot. But one thing is for sure: Wherever Scribner opens next, he says, "I'm focusing most on the food."

-- Tom Sietsema