In What Was 'Heaven on Earth,' 18 Holes and 13 Dead

There are now three major golf courses in Kashmir, including a new one in Srinagar.

Yes, golf, in Kashmir. Why not? Just because a place isn't living in a state of constant peace doesn't mean you can't have any fun.

There's bowling in Ivory Coast, cricket in Congo, sand safaris in Sudan. And now there's a brand-new $5 million, 18-hole course called Royal Springs nestled in the hills overlooking Dal Lake. It may be the most militarized golf course on Earth.

The golf course is shaped like the map of India, itself a dangerous political statement in a place where borders have long been contested. The tree-shaded links are so manicured and pristine that they seem almost a journey into a fantasy world, especially compared with bombed-out areas and the sight of armed Indian security forces wearing flak jackets.

The golf course has a pro shop with polo shirts stitched with the Royal Springs logo, a beautiful copper fireplace to sip hot chocolate by in winter and an air-conditioned TV lounge for summers. The director hopes to attract high-dollar players both from India and from places like Dubai, those looking for an exotic holiday away from the crowds.

"This is one of the best golf courses in the world," boasted Farooq Shah, not only the director of the facility but also Kashmir's tourism director. "When a golfer comes to the state, he is a high-spending tourist. He hires a taxi, he stays in a good hotel, he goes shopping. So, indirectly, it really benefits the tourism industry."

But hand grenades and a holiday usually don't go together. And the ghosts of tourists past haunt this place as do the memories and confidence of what used to be.

On a recent night, Sarmad Hafeez, joint director of tourism in Kashmir, attended a discussion on a boat I was renting, one of Butt's remaining functioning houseboats. The meeting was on how to boost tourism in Kashmir.

As he sipped Kashmir's signature yellow tea with almond slices and cardamom, Hafeez talked about how the region has some of the world's best skiing in Gulmarg, just a few hours away from Srinagar. Because so few people come, it has one of the world's best skier-to-powder ratios, he said.

When the subject of violence came up, Hafeez told of a tourist injured in a bomb blast.

"It was the kindness of Kashmiris who pulled him out of the car and helped donate blood," he said without a touch of irony. "The tourist was so happy, he came limping back to my office, even with one leg in a cast, to tell me how much he loved Kashmir."

It's not exactly a good line to attract visitors. The odd thing was that I sort of understood what he meant.