Feeling Picklish? Toss 'Em in the Fryer.

In the Southern school of culinary thought, if something's tasty as is, it's even better fried. That principle was what led chef Eric Reid to dish up "frickles," the crispy fried pickle chips that are the top seller at Del Merei Grille, his restaurant in Alexandria's Del Ray neighborhood (3106 Mount Vernon Ave., 703-739-4335).

The sounds-odd-but-tastes-great dish ($4) is a study in contrasts: Piping-hot pickle slices in a brown-batter coating get a cool partner in the spicy mayo-based remoulade they're paired with. The salty dill flavor is a counterpoint to the tangy pepper-laced sauce.

Reid, who opened Del Merei in 2005 with then-pal Mary Abraham (she's now his sister-in-law), was looking for a crunchy appetizer to round out the menu of comfort-food staples. At nearby Evening Star Cafe, where Reid had been a chef, fried calamari was a customer favorite, and Reid hit on pickles as a perfect -- and unusual -- candidate for a swim in the fryer.

Reid's food philosophy is simple: "I just like serving food people like, and I'm a huge fan of fried foods," he says. "You can pretty much throw anything in the deep-fryer and it tastes good."

He happily shared his recipe, scaling it back from the giant batches he makes at the restaurant and adjusting it for the home cook. Don't be intimidated by the frying, he insists: It's perfectly doable and doesn't require special equipment. The keys are plenty of oil, high temperatures and a brief post-fry rest on a bed of paper towels to soak up clinging grease.

My first try yielded sodden, oily slices, not crisp ones like those that had entranced me at Del Merei. Then I used a thermometer that clips to the side of the pot to make sure the oil was hot enough, and soon I was dishing up frickles that were a dead ringer for Del Merei's.

Reid serves them with a garnish of mixed greens, but that's a little too restauranty for me. I like them served right away on a simple platter with a ramekin of the piquant sauce. Either way, frickles make for an impressive nosh with cocktails at a dinner party and can be a surprising topping for burgers.

And after your guests clean their plates, you'll be proud to call yourself a fry guy -- or gal.