An Economist's Palate, Applied to Dining Around D.C.

He's no fan of D.C. Restaurant Week, which runs through Sunday, but Tyler Cowen shares his tips for making the most of it on Page F3. (By Susan Biddle -- The Washington Post)

Today in the Washington area, he recommends Ethiopian, Salvadoran and Vietnamese. (Ten years ago, Afghan and Indian cuisine were at the top of his list.) And skip Mexican food -- the only passable stuff in this area, according to Cowen, is in Kensington -- or learn to cook it at home. "Always remember: There's strength in numbers."

Rule 3: Order strategically. In fancy restaurants, never ask, "What should I get?" The waiter might have incentives to push the dish with the highest profit margin or the most expensive items, which will jack up the tip. Instead, ask, "What's best?" That allows the waiter to highlight what's special and reveals how informed the staff is. If the waiter's answer is "everything" -- an uninformed or cowardly response -- head for the door.

In ethnic restaurants, in contrast, asking what's best often gets you the most watered-down dishes, designed for gringos. Instead, at a Salvadoran restaurant, for example, look at what Salvadoran diners have ordered and ask for the same.

Rule 4: Know the "restaurant cycle." When it comes to fine dining, restaurants have a shelf life: "First they cook for the critics, and it's wonderful. And they win awards and the word gets out," Cowen said. "Then everyone starts to come and it becomes more mainstream. The chef is less concerned about developing a reputation and more about cooking for the masses." That can happen, he said, in as little as nine months.

Cowen suggests going to Hook in Georgetown, which is just beginning to get good press and is stellar, and to the Penn Quarter Indian hot spot Rasika; it's peaking. But he thinks Mediterranean tapas restaurant Zaytinya and "modern Mexican" Zengo, while still good, are already headed downhill.

It all makes perfect sense if you like what Cowen likes, which is interesting food for a reasonable price without much ambiance. Which is not what everyone likes.

Some diners enjoy people-watching and a sophisticated setting; others value flawless service. "In this day and age, I don't think you can have any hard-and-fast rules about where you find a good thing," said Jane Stern, a veteran food critic and co-author with her husband, Michael, of "Roadfood," a guide to the best no-frills regional food. "We have rules, but I wouldn't foist them on other people. I can't think of anything more appetite-killing than rules."

Maybe. But if you're hungry in a strange city, calling on your inner economist might not be a bad place to start. The dismal science might just help avoid a dismal meal.