By Megan Voelkel
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, August 26, 2007
Seven anxious amateurs stand behind truncated wooden barrels that brim with ripe red and green grapes. All barefoot, some sipping a glass of wine (the event's makeshift energy drink), they are ready for a smashing good time.
These folks are part of a particular stampede that treads on nostalgia, competition and, quite literally, fruit. Grape stomping -- immortalized by Lucille Ball's comic vineyard escapade -- is taking center stage at area wine festivals.
"It's because of 'I Love Lucy,' " Melissa Foster, 25, says of her last-minute decision to join those ready to romp at the recent Great Grapes! Wine, Arts and Food Festival in Annapolis. "I thought it was much harder than what it looked like. It's a workout."
George Bazaco, owner of Doukenie Winery in Loudoun County, says the fall is ripe for grape-stomping events because harvest season starts in early September. Many wineries host the barefoot stomp, which has been unnecessary to winemaking since the development of mechanical grape crushers, merely as a special attraction during festival time.
"It's much more efficient to use a press," Bazaco says. "I doubt you get more than 50 percent of the juice if you do it with your feet."
Of course, mechanical power hasn't completely erased the value of pedal power. A good ol' traditional foot stomp is still a viable way for home winemakers to break open and destem grapes. (Incidentally, many grape varieties won't permanently stain feet, and any unwanted bacteria introduced are unlikely to survive the acidity of the refined juice, Bazaco says.)
At the region's wine festivals, though, grape stomping is more about winning and showmanship than juice. Some grape grinders seem to boogie best by repeatedly stomping with a single leg. Others -- usually the better balanced -- engage in a hip-swiveling number, hoping twists will add oomph to their step. And the retro-regressive return to the 1980s "running man" move is an ambitious strategy for those unafraid of slipping.
After a heated five minutes of competitive squishing at the Annapolis festival, Mike Walter, an anchor for WUSA (Channel 9), steps out of his barrel -- feet dirty but hands clean -- to claim the winner's trophy.
To Walter, it's a relief just to walk away from the event unscathed. His biggest pre-stomp worry: reenacting the popular YouTube clip of a TV news reporter who abruptly concluded her live grape-stomping demonstration when she fell off a stage and landed face-first on the ground, howling in pain.
"That was my greatest fear: that I would get up here and embarrass myself," he says.
Perhaps Walter should have gotten a pep talk from Kopa and Michelle Kaluahine, who were crowned the world's best grape stompers at last year's Sonoma County Harvest Fair in California. The son-and-mom duo smashed 60 pounds of grapes to produce more than 24 pounds of juice in five minutes, beating about 200 other two-person teams.
"Once you see people doing it, you want to do it, too," Michelle Kaluahine says. "It's a good, fun competition. It's messy. Afterward, you just look like a train wreck. I'll come home and have grape seeds in my ear."
Get Your Squish OnIf your toes are tingling for some grape-stomping entertainment, roll up your pants legs and check out these upcoming events.
Saturday and Sept. 2: Wintergreen Winery outside Charlottesville kicks off its fall harvest with a Labor Day weekend Romp, Stomp & Chomp Harvest Celebration, complete with live music and winery tours. 462 Winery Lane, Nellysford, Va. $7, includes wineglass; children free. 434-361-2519. http://www.wintergreenwinery.com.
Sept. 8: Sample traditional German food at First Colony Winery's Harvestfest before jumping in the barrel for a traditional winemaking stomp in the "weingarten." 1650 Harris Creek Rd., Charlottesville. $12, ages 12 and younger $8. 877-979-7105. http://www.firstcolonywinery.com.
Sept. 8: Wine-tasting seminars, crafts, live music and kid-friendly entertainment round out the action at Shenadoah Vineyards' Harvest Festival. 3659 S. Ox Rd., Edinburg, Va. $10, ages 4 to 20 $5. 540-984-8699. http://www.shentel.net/shenvine.
Sept. 22: Spend an Italian-themed afternoon at Doukenie Winery's Taste of Italy festival, where home-cooked appetizers, dancing and Lucy look-alike contests are on the menu. 14727 Mountain Rd., Purcellville. $12 in advance, $15 at the gate. 540-668-6464. http://www.doukenie.com.
Sept. 22-23: A full entertainment lineup, hayrides and food vendors are scheduled at Tarara Winery's Great Grape Wine Festival, where grape stompers can go head-to-head -- or feet-to-feet -- in an annual competition. 13648 Tarara Lane, Leesburg. $10 in advance, $15 at the gate; designated drivers and ages 7-20 $8. 703-771-7100, Ext. 233. http://www.tarara.com.
Sept. 29: A grape-stomping romp is a sweet dessert after a catered lunch on the east slope of the Blue Ridge Mountains at Fox Meadow Vineyards and Winery's Harvest Picnic in Fauquier County. 3310 Freezeland Rd., Linden. $30, includes picnic and one glass of wine. 540-636-6777. http://www.foxmeadowwinery.com.
Oct. 6: In the Shenandoah Valley, grape stomping for the kids -- and the kid at heart -- accompanies hayrides, live music and making use of the souvenir wine-sampling glass at Rockbridge Vineyard's annual Harvest Festival. 35 Hill View Lane, Raphine, Va. $5. 540-377-6204. http://www.rockbridgevineyard.com.
Oct. 13-14: Take part in Sugarloaf Mountain Vineyard's first Grape Stomp, which will inclu de onstage contests throughout the day, in addition to live music, food vendors and winery tours. 18125 Comus Rd., Dickerson. $10. 301-605-0130. http://www.smvwinery.com.
-- M.V.
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