Wednesday, August 29, 2007

Taste of Morocco, 8661 Colesville Rd., Silver Spring (in City Place Mall), 301-588-4003;http://www.tasteofmorocco.net.

Traditionally made with pigeon and originally a specialty of the city of Fes, a cinnamon-scented savory pie is a have-to-have at celebrations in Morocco.

Here, chef Hassan Zirari deftly encases shredded chicken, onion, parsley and ground almonds in a flaky phyllo crust for a delicious and rich dish. It is best shared as an appetizer (small, $15.95, serves two; medium, $25.95, serves four; large, $36.95, serves six; also available filled with seafood or vegetables), and it makes a beautiful presentation -- from the first pierce of a knife into its cinnamon- and confectioners'-sugar-dusted dome, releasing a fragrant waft of steam, to the last bite.

-- Walter Nicholls

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