In Every Dimension, a Landscape of Possibilities

Vertical

Subdividing areas with vertical elements can make a space appear larger, and the vertical plane can be designed with a rustic or formal ambiance.

Screening to block unpleasant views, provide privacy or establish a barrier from a neighbor's property has been among the top requests from my clients over the years. It's human nature to feel secure and comfortable in a private enclosure.

All shrubs, grasses, vines and trees that grow in the range of eight to 40 feet in height are vertical elements and therefore potential screens. Trellises, a fence section or two, or a couple of conifers are among other candidates.

I am not an advocate of surrounding yourself with walls, fences and plantings, but you should create a private space where you can be alone.

Perhaps a section of fence would be enough, or several large conifers strategically located to block views, rather than a formal hedge.

Groupings of trees and shrubs work well together. Use plants with upright, spreading branching habits. Create a physical barrier by planting several shrubs, a small flowering tree and then some evergreens. Design for interesting flowers, foliage and bark.

One arrangement on the vertical plane could be a hedge of fragrant osmanthus or Alleghany viburnum. Another option could be American hollies and Southern magnolias strategically located to screen selected views, though plants of that scale generally relate more to the top level of the landscape.

Overhead

The overhead plane keeps the landscape to "people-size" proportion. Tree canopies are the best way to do this.

Full canopies on maturing shade trees, such as oaks, red maples, beeches and hickories, should stand above the property, with their lower limbs elevated to permit passage underneath.

Instead of choosing only trees that you already know, think about the features you want, such as flowers, fall color, attracting birds and interesting growth habits. Then go to the garden center and request trees that meet these criteria.

With the exception of one or two evergreens that don't fit small properties, such as dawn redwood and Leyland cypress, most large trees are slow to establish but add the greatest value. The most desirable large shade trees are 30 to 35 feet tall, about half their maximum height. They are too big for you to plant and large enough to offer shade; you can watch them grow for many years.

Old trees are wonderful, if they're healthy. Existing large trees around a new home should be carefully scrutinized for signs of bulldozer, trenching and other construction activities at their roots, especially if the trees are a reason you're buying. It takes three to six years for construction damage to kill a mature shade tree, and taking down mature trees can be quite costly.

Trees are awe-inspiring, but they aren't the only canopies that offer cooling shade. A pergola, portico, belvedere, gazebo, a contemporary canvas shelter or an awning will also offer overhead enclosure. If you want the sky to be the limit, build a pergola or shade trellis to see through to the stars, or an awning that will open to the sky at the push of a button.

The roof height of the structure or lowest branches of a tree will have the greatest impact in determining whether an area feels large or small.

Tall trees, such as white oaks and tulip poplars, offer a monumental scale to the garden as they age. Their lower branches can be as much as 20 feet above the ground. Other shade trees with lower canopies will bring the surroundings into smaller proportion. Trees with lower branching habits include river birch, large crape myrtle, paperbark maple, red maple, saucer magnolia, sweet gum and black gum.

Joel M. Lerner is president of Environmental Design in Capitol View Park, Md. E-mail or contact him through his Web site,http://www.gardenlerner.com.