Sticky Times for Rice As Japan Breaks Bread

By Lori Aratani
Washington Post Staff Writer
Tuesday, October 16, 2007

NIIGATA CITY, Japan -- Koji Yamaguchi, a 49-year-old public relations professional, loves his rice. He eats it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

But when Yamaguchi, who works for the city of Niigata, sits down for a meal with his daughter Misaki, 14, it's not the Japanese staple she reaches for. No, she prefers bread or pasta -- a break with the dietary traditions of her forebears, including her grandparents, who were rice farmers.

In a sign of changing times that has wounded Japan's gastronomical pride and mobilized its powerful farm lobby, the national rice bowl these days is increasingly less full. Challenged by trendy culinary newcomers such as croissants and spaghetti, baguettes and French fries, per capita rice consumption among Japanese has fallen to half of what it was in the late 1960s.

In response, farmers and retailers are scrambling to find new ways to keep people loyal to the tender grain that remains a symbol of prosperity and self-sufficiency.

Akinori Hokari, 35, who took over management of his family's rice shop in Niigata 10 years ago, is one of the people giving the frumpy product a makeover. His tiny shop now offers a line of "designer rices" -- in reality, unmilled grains that when added in small amounts to a rice cooker turn traditional white rice pink or purple. For the health-conscious, he offers high-fiber mixtures such as oat rice and brown rice that has been steeped in water until sprouts emerge.

He's won some converts. Customers concerned about their health love the sprouted rice, which adds a little crunch to their meal, and the colored rices have been a hit among younger customers, he said. He has also managed to persuade some of Niigata's hospitals to buy the pink-tinged rice to serve to new mothers.

Still, many older people remain wary, particularly of unmilled grains, which remind them of the World War II years, when refined white rice was a scarce luxury.

The local rice retailers' association is also going upscale, getting member shops to market Toki Hikari, an organic rice raised on Sado Island, 25 miles away. The rice is grown in small quantities, without the aid of machinery, and priced at 30 to 40 percent above the country's top varieties.

Japan's culinary experts are trying to invent entirely new rice products, although so far there has been no breakthrough comparable to ethanol, which has transformed the fortunes of corn growers.

In Osaka, Koichi Fukamori made his name baking flaky croissants and baguettes, but a few years ago he was recruited for a new mission: boosting rice consumption by developing tasty baked goods made from rice flour. "I thought he was crazy," Fukamori said, referring to the local Agriculture Ministry official who had tracked him down via the Internet.

Now, the good-humored baker, who wears red shoes when he cooks, sells rice bread and rolls in his shops. The bread is tender -- and discernibly chewy, which Fukamori said is a bonus for the Japanese palate because it evokes the texture of rice cakes eaten at New Year's celebrations.

Yukio Hattori, a Japanese television personality best known to American audiences as a commentator on the Food Network cooking show "Iron Chef," has joined the campaign. His smiling face appears on the Japanese government's version of the food pyramid -- a multicolored chart that spells out the optimal diet.

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