Wednesday, October 17, 2007

Jaleo, 480 Seventh St. NW, 202-628-7949; 7271 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, 301-913-0003; 2250-A Crystal Dr., Arlington, 703-413-8181;http://www.jaleo.com.

The spirit of pintxos, the famed diminutive tapas from Spain's Basque region, has taken up residence at Jaleo during a two-week festival that ends Sunday. A changing assortment of 10 pintxos of the day ($1.50 to $3), inspired by guest chef Patxi Bergara of Bar Bergara in San Sebastian, includes potent combinations of shrimp, tomatoes, eggs, anchovies, ham and more, all in various guises, usually sitting on crostini. Our favorite: two little strips of roasted pepper (one red, one green) topped with two styles of anchovies (one cured in salt, one in vinegar). Today and tomorrow during pintxo hour (5 to 6 p.m.), all three Jaleos take on the honor-system feel of a pintxos bar in San Sebastian: Special $1 bites will be set out at the bar, and bartenders will figure your bill by tallying toothpicks.

-- Joe Yonan Know of a dish that's worth the trip? E-mail food@washpost.com.