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Bastille: Hearty and Elegant French Country Cooking
Bastille offers quality food with elegant touches, a cozy atmosphere, plenty of parking and relatively low prices. Seared sea scallops are new to the menu.
(Photos By John Mcdonnell -- The Washington Post)
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The goat cheese also appears in one of Garbee's specialties, a miniature goat cheesecake that is light and still tangy. Roasted pistachio nuts and fresh figs complement this appetizer and others.
Bastille's soups, especially, transport me to France, where hearty soups are a national favorite. One night the soup was squash and mushroom, another night broccoli and carrot; both were lighter than they sounded, and each flavor seemed made for the other.
My only disappointment was the signature dish of shrimp and calamari beignets. Attractively served in a paper cone supported by a twirl of ironwork, the beignets didn't have much flavor and were too heavy for a starter.
There was no such displeasure among main courses: Scallops were perfectly caramelized and set off with basil pesto and sauteed potatoes. Beef fillet medallions were perfectly cooked to medium-rare, sauced with a wine reduction that included porcini and truffles and matched with a Manchego potato cake.
Our neighbors on the banquette sang the praises of the braised lamb shank and the bistro steak (a flavorful hangar steak from the shoulder) and wonderful french fries.
But my favorite dishes came on a Sunday night, when Poteaux re-creates French family dinner. Cassoulet is seldom a dish you will hear described as elegant, but Poteaux's version is, with garlic-infused and ham-flecked white beans topped with duck leg confit, crisped at the last minute, and a mild sausage. Beef bourguignon, the classic stew, was ladled around a mound of mashed potatoes adorned with sauteed spinach; as lovely to look at as to eat.
Portions at Bastille are sized so you won't be tempted to skip dessert, and you shouldn't. The bittersweet chocolate pot de cr¿me is a chocolate lover's heaven, the squash cheesecake is buttery and light, and the walnut cake (though a bit dry) is redolent of this favorite French nut. The best is the small pear tarte Tatin, a buttery delight.
Bastille serves only beer, wine and some European soft drinks. The wine list doesn't have many familiar names on it but has a good assortment of reasonably priced French bottles. Servers aren't expert in discussing the wines, but that shouldn't spoil a quick trip to this French countryside.
Bastille, 1201 N. Royal St., Alexandria, 703-519-3776. Reservations recommended. Hours: lunch, 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, noon to 2:30 p.m. Saturday and 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday brunch; dinner, 6 to 9:30 p.m., Monday through Thursday, 6 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday and 4 to 8 p.m. Sunday. Appetizers, $7 to $15; main courses, $16 to $26; desserts, $6; three-course Sunday brunch, $19; three-course Sunday dinner, $24.http:/
If you have a favorite restaurant that you think deserves attention, please contact Nancy Lewis atlewisn@washpost.com.
