Som Tum

Nava Thai Noodle and Grill, 11315 Fern St., Wheaton, 240- 430-0495.

The lush chili pepper plants at the entrance of this hidden gem (behind Hung Phat Asian Grocery) are a forewarning that there is heat in the home-style curries, soups and noodle dishes here.

The same intensity of spicy goodness can be found in this refreshing salad composed of shaved green papaya with cherry tomato halves and green beans ($5.95 at lunch, $6.95 at dinner), a dish that's a mainstay on Thai menus. At Nava, which means "boat," the lively, peanutty, sweet-and-sour dressing is particularly pungent, alive with lime juice, fish sauce, garlic and tamarind. The flavors are not watered down to suit American tastes.

Some restaurants add crab or shrimp to this dish, but Nava relies on simplicity and a style of cooking found in the street markets of Thailand.

-- Walter Nicholls

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