Wednesday, November 14, 2007

Equinox Restaurant, 818 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-331-8118,http://www.equinoxrestaurant.com.

In a world of culinary gimmicks, it was only a matter of time before chefs stopped seasoning food on the plate and let the plate season the food instead. That's what is new at Equinox, where chef Todd Gray is presenting thin, buttery slices of the raw fish (two-person appetizer, $15) atop a square slab of rosy Himalayan salt.

A stunt, yes, but one with exciting results. Besides its beautiful presentation, the salt slab both seasons the fish and begins to cure it before your eyes. Let it sit too long and the fish, topped with pineapple, cucumber, scallion and piquillo pepper, risks becoming oversalted. But eat quickly -- and you will -- and the dish offers a progressive parade of flavors. Other experimental dishes on Saltware may be served to curious diners on request.

-- Jane Black

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