NightLife

Marvin's Belgian Soul

The dimly lit lounge draws patrons, including Janice Green and Christopher Wardlaw.
The dimly lit lounge draws patrons, including Janice Green and Christopher Wardlaw. (Michael Temchine - Freelance)
Discussion Policy
Comments that include profanity or personal attacks or other inappropriate comments or material will be removed from the site. Additionally, entries that are unsigned or contain "signatures" by someone other than the actual author will be removed. Finally, we will take steps to block users who violate any of our posting standards, terms of use or privacy policies or any other policies governing this site. Please review the full rules governing commentaries and discussions. You are fully responsible for the content that you post.
By Fritz Hahn
Special to The Washington Post
Friday, November 16, 2007

The space: Marvin, a new bistro and lounge near 14th and U streets NW (2007 14th St. NW; 202-797-7171) has been open barely three weeks. There's no sign outside, just a small plaque on the door.

The dimly lit interior is inviting, moody and seductive, with a continental lounge vibe. A vast back deck promises to be a destination next summer.

It's owned by Eric Hilton, one-half of internationally renowned DJ duo Thievery Corporation and founder of Washington's legendary Eighteenth Street Lounge. The name is a nod to Marvin Gaye, a native Washingtonian responsible for dozens of soul gems, including Hilton's favorite album of all time, "What's Going On." In the early '80s, after some critically panned albums, bankruptcy and a growing drug addiction, Gaye moved to Ostend, Belgium, to detox and put his life in focus. The two years he spent there are the inspiration for Marvin, which offers Belgian food and drink with soul music and a laid-back attitude.

The scene: Downstairs, Marvin is a restaurant. Upstairs, it's a lounge. The two have separate personalities and hours.

The first floor, which is open only for dinner (until midnight on weekends, 11 during the week), is a warm take on the classic European bistro, with dark wood accents, huge mirrors and chalkboard menus. You could say you've seen it all before -- until you notice one wall is dominated by a huge image of Gaye, wearing stunning '70s platform disco boots.

The crowd is a mix of the neighborhood: 20s to 50s (or older), black and white, dressed up for dinner and fashionably dressed down for lounging.

A short bar counter has only eight stools. "We're a restaurant with a bar, not a bar with a restaurant," Hilton says.

Upstairs is a decidedly homey room with framed pictures of music icons such as Josephine Baker and the Supremes above comfortable floral-patterned banquettes, high-backed chairs and round bistro-style tables. The bar area can turn into a zoo when crowds jostle for the bartender's attention at peak periods. The real star is the back deck, which feels as big as the two indoor rooms combined. Its covered bar runs down one wall. Braziers battle the chill (the management team has discussed tenting the deck for the winter).

In your glass: Belgian beers to match the Belgian cuisine. Stella Artois, Leffe Brune, Hoegaarden and the Canadian-made (but Belgian-style) Maudite are among the beers on tap. Thirty Belgian beers are available in bottles. The liquor selection is solid if unspectacular. The selection of wines by the glass is broader than at many nearby bars.

On your plate: Marvin's menu is a curious mix of Belgian classics (mussels and fries, steak and fries) and Southern soul food (chicken and waffles, shrimp and grits). Again, it's a nod to Gaye's time in Ostend, but "selfishly, those are two cuisines I really like," Hilton says.

Need to know: There's no gargantuan bouncer or cover charge. There's no dress code, either, though the crowd generally makes an effort to look stylish, whether that's a retro dress, a vintage-style track top or a sharp-looking sweater.

Nice to know: The DJ booth in the second-floor lounge is occupied seven nights a week, and some of the faces will be familiar to regulars at Eighteenth Street Lounge or the nearby Cafe Saint-Ex. Expect a mix of '60s and '70s soul, funk and R&B -- anything from Motown girl groups to blaxploitation soundtracks to long-lost jams full of Hammond organ.

Price points: About $7 for one of the tap beers, and a buck or two more for one of the better bottles, such as Affligem or Chimay. Cocktails start at $8 if you're requesting a specific brand, and most wines hover around the same price. Dinner entrees range from $16 to $24.



© 2007 The Washington Post Company