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Evo Bistro: Innovative Wine and Tapas
(Photos By John Mcdonnell -- The Washington Post)
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Zahidi plays with other traditional tapas dishes in much the same way. His patatas bravas, crisp cubes of fried potato, don't come with the usual spicy tomato and aioli sauces but rather a sprightly dressing with a base of Spanish Cabrales cheese, a pungent blue cheese. The chef uses jumbo shrimps, rather than the usual medium size, in his version of shrimp sauteed with garlic, only he pairs them with a more polished white wine and garlic sauce.
The most popular item on the menu is the Evo crepe, a spinach crepe with a mound of jumbo lump crabmeat dressed in a saffron vanilla sauce. It's big enough for an entree, and probably serves two as an appetizer, but I didn't see anyone sharing.
A petite filet of beef was paired with a rich piquillo pepper sauce and topped with sauteed oyster mushrooms. A simple beef turnover was encased in delicate puff pastry. The fried calamari was nearly greaseless and, oh, so tender.
The chicken and serrano ham croquettes were crisp and not greasy, but their near-golf-ball size made them too doughy and not the simple one-bite pleasure they should be.
There are also several entrees, including paella, steak and lamb shanks braised in a tagine.
In addition to the printed menu, daily specials are listed on a large blackboard over the bar. There are only a few choices for dessert, and they change, but if the pear tart is offered, don't miss it. It's just slices of pear atop a mound of wonderfully flaky puff pastry, and it's delicious.
Evo Bistro, 1313 Old Chain Bridge Rd., McLean, 703-288-4422. Hours: 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 5 to 10 p.m. Monday through Friday, 5 to 11 p.m. Saturday. Tapas, $6 to $12.50; entrees, $19.50 to $24; special three-tapas lunch, $12.http:/
If you have a favorite restaurant that you think deserves attention, please contact Nancy Lewis atlewisn@washpost.com.
