COMING AND GOING

Is Antarctica Safe?

CRUISE NEWS

Is Antarctica Safe?

The recent sinking of the M /S Explorer off the coast of Antarctica, which left 154 passengers and crew members huddled in small lifeboats on the frigid water for hours, drew attention to the growing popularity of Antarctic tourism. It also raised questions about the safety of navigating the unpredictable, icy seas.

"There is no question that going to extreme parts of the world has some risk attached," said Sven Lindblad, president and owner of Lindblad Expeditions, an adventure travel company that operates the ship Endeavor in Antarctica. He advised passengers to "make sure the ship you choose is ice-strengthened, but above all, ask about the experience of the captain and crew."

The Explorer, built by Lindblad's father and sold to Canada-based G.A.P. Adventures after many years of sailing around Antarctica, was seaworthy, with an ice-hardened double hull, Lindblad said. Moreover, it had a veteran crew of polar mariners. "It seems it was just an odd occurrence," Lindblad said.

Yet he's concerned that the sudden explosion of interest in cruising the Antarctic has outpaced the availability of experienced crews. The Explorer was the first cruise ship to ply the waters off Antarctica, and in the 1960s it cruised alone. Today about 50 ships take passengers there. "I worry that such rapid increases raise questions about how much experience personnel can h ave," Lindblad said, adding that the waters of the Antarctic are unique.

Although he said it's impossible to stipulate how much experience a crew member should have, he noted that among Endeavor captains, "each has more than 100 Antarctic expeditions under their belts."

The Explorer had some intrepid travelers aboard. After reaching land, some passengers decided to go home, while at least a few chose to take off again on other ships cruising the Antarctic, said Kira Zack, a spokeswoman for G.A.P. The travel company has set up a hotline, 800-708-7761, for passengers booked on the now-defunct ship.

THE POLITICS OF TRAVEL

Libyan Surprise

Tourists visiting Libya have been turned away recently as the nation suddenly demanded that passport details be translated into Arabic by government-approved translators.

Ships stopping in Tripoli last month were ordered out of Libyan waters and began substituting other ports of call until further notice. Passengers on flights to Libya are being denied boarding if they do not have the required translation. Not only were cruise lines not informed in advance, but "Libyan embassies and consulates in Europe were not immediately informed," according to a statement issued by Costa Cruises, one of a number of lines with stops in Tripoli.

Libya does not maintain an embassy in the United States, and most Americans who travel there are assisted by their cruise line or apply for a visa at a Libyan embassy abroad. Personnel at the Libyan Interest Section in Washington referred CoGo to its embassy in Ottawa, which is formally called the People's Bureau of the Great Socialist People's Libyan Arab Jamahiriya. The bureau's Web site, at http://www.libya-canada.org, did not mention the translation requirement among its instructions for applying for a visa as of last week. You can also call the People's Bureau in Ottawa at 613-216-0136.

UPRIGHT AND LOCKED

Speeding Through Security

Officials at Reagan National and Dulles International airports are considering bids from companies that want to operate a Registered Traveler program. The program provides expedited security lanes for passengers who pay a fee, usually about $100 a year, to be pre-screened and given a "trusted traveler" card. Although a decision isn't anticipated until the end of this year, at least two bidders -- Clear and Flo-- have launched marketing campaigns to sign up Washington area travelers.

While awaiting a decision about Washington airports, those holding the trusted traveler cards can use the express lanes at any of the 14 U.S. airports that have such lanes. Each company charges about $99 when you enroll, but under the Clear offer, the one-year subscription period doesn't start until express lanes open at airports here.

Although different companies operate registered traveler programs at different airports, all must accept one another's cards. Thus, if you sign up with Flo but Clear wins the bid, or vice versa, either company's card will get you through express lanes anywhere.

Flo announced last week that it has partnered with Omega World Travel to process cardholders, but you can start by visiting http://www.flocard.com. Clear, which operates 12 of the 14 registered traveler programs, has sign-up stations at various sites in federal buildings and gives special deals for government employees, including free cards to active members of the military. Details: http://www.flyclear.com (click on Enrollment, Enrollment Locations and Washington).

BARGAIN OF THE WEEK

Peachy

AirTran is holding a systemwide sale for travel through Feb. 27, excluding holiday blackout dates. For example, fly nonstop from Washington Dulles to Atlanta for $179 round trip (including $21 taxes). Other airlines are matching, but the fare is typically about $329. Lowest fares for Tuesday, Wednesday or Saturday travel. Ten-day advance purchase is required; buy by Dec. 13. Book at www.airtran.com, or for $7.50 more call 800-247-8726.

Reporting: Cindy Loose

Help feed CoGo. Send travel news, road reports and juicy tattles to cogo@washpost.com. By mail: CoGo, Washington Post Travel Section, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071.