Ski This Mountain and You'll Be a Believer

THE AMBIANCE: In an age when most resorts are corporate-owned entities, Mount Shasta Ski Park is a rare throwback to another age: a family-owned operation. Jason Young's grandfather, Chuck Young, built the park 22 years ago. Jason's dad is general manager, his mom and an aunt run the gift shop, his uncle is company president, his sister is season pass manager and her husband manages the maintenance crew.

"We have 250 winter employees, mostly locals, and that ends up being family, too," Jason Young says. "There's a lot of mothers, daughters, fathers and sons; a big-family atmosphere. And everyone does dirty work. My dad runs the cats." Last winter, he said, a snowstorm dumped 24 inches in less than 24 hours, "and the owners were working with the lift crew to get things back up and running."

What that means for visitors is hard to describe, but it adds the kinds of subtle and not-so-subtle differences you feel in a family-owned restaurant, as opposed to a chain. Homey, you might say.

SURROUNDING AREA: Three towns lie in the shadow of the mountain, all in Siskiyou County (population 48,000). Mount Shasta, population 3,621 in the last census, is the largest of the three towns. It has a sophisticated-yet-friendly vibe, with attractive clothing and gift shops, several bookstores, lots of New Age-type crystals for sale and interesting places to stay and eat. You might also want to visit Shasta Abbey (530-926-4208, http://www.shastaabbey.org), a Zen Buddhist monastery. Call ahead for a tour or to attend ceremonies. Lodging on the 16-acre property is available only to those on retreats; price is what you can afford to pay.

McCloud and Dunsmuir were once railroading towns; Dunsmuir in particular has a working-class feel, but both offer attractive places to lodge and dine.

Redding, about 60 miles away, is worth a stop to see the Sundial Bridge, designed by renowned architect Santiago Calatrava, within the Turtle Bay Exploration Park (800-887-8532, http://www.turtlebay.org).

OTHER WINTER ACTIVITIES: The nonprofit Nordic Center (530-926-2142, http://www.mtshastanordic.org) maintains 15 1/2 miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiing, asking only a donation to use them. They also offer backcountry touring over vast territories. The town of Mount Shasta has a large outdoor ice rink, and you can rent snowshoes in various shops in town.

NIGHT LIFE: That's not the reason to come here, remember? But you can settle back for drinks with the locals at the Billy Goats Tavern (107 Chestnut St., Mount Shasta, 530-926-0209), which also serves good sandwiches and finger food. The Wayside (2217 S. Mount Shasta Blvd., 530-918-9234) has live music on weekends. Otherwise, look at the stars.

WHERE TO STAY: Within a 10- to 20-minute drive of the slopes you can find cabins, cottages, houses, B&Bs, inns, hotels and motels, with budget properties beginning as low as $39 a night. Our picks:

* The McCloud Hotel (408 Main St., McCloud, 800-964-2823, http://www.mccloudhotel.com) is a historic landmark rating four AAA diamonds. Doubles range from $100 to $235 a night. During Christmas season it's decorated with lights and 20 or more Christmas trees.

* At the Victorian-style McCloud River Inn (325 Lawndale Ct., McCloud, http://www.riverinn.com, 800-261-7831), doubles range from $96 to $165 a night in winter, with 25 percent off for skiers Sunday through Thursday.

* Also in McCloud, the McCloud River Mercantile (241 Main St., 530-964-2602) has newly renovated rooms above its Victorian-style gift shop. Doubles range from $120 to $195 a night.

* Stay in one of the cabooses spiffed up inside for visitors at Railroad Park Resort (100 Railroad Park Rd., Dunsmuir, 530-235-4440, http://www.rrpark.com). Doubles range from $95 to $110 a night.

* A night at ShasTao Philosophical Hermitage (3609 N. Old Stage Rd., Mount Shasta, 530-926-4154, http://www.shastao.com), a B&B snuggled in the woods, includes a vegetarian or vegan breakfast and, in the evening, dessert and a philosophical discussion with other guests and the owners, both of whom are philosophy professors. The hermitage caters to "conscientious travelers with artistic, spiritual or philosophical interests." Facilities include a spiritual library and an art studio with supplies. Doubles are $145 a night.

WHERE TO EAT: In Mount Shasta, Lily's (1013 S. Mount Shasta Blvd., 530-926-3372, http://www.lilysrestaurant.com) is especially good for breakfast, for under $10. Dinners range from $16 to $23. For a more upscale atmosphere and gourmet fare, try the Trinity Cafe (622 N. Mount Shasta Blvd., 530-926-6200, http://www.trinitycafe.com), where dinner entrees range from $17 to $33.

In Dunsmuir, the Cornerstone Bakery Cafe (5759 Dunsmuir Ave., 530-235-4677) has excellent breakfast, sandwiches and salads for lunch, and a full dinner menu with steaks, pasta and seafood. Dinner entrees are $16 to $24. Cafe Maddalena (5801 Sacramento Ave., 530-235-2725, http://www.cafemaddalena.com) has upscale Mediterranean cuisine. Dinner entrees range from $19 to $27.

Romantic dining is featured in beautifully restored railroad cars aboard the Shasta Sunset Dinner Train (328 Main St., McCloud, 800-733-2141, http://www.shastasunset.com). A four-course meal includes a three-hour train ride. You must reserve and select your entrees in advance.

Mount Shasta Ski Park, 800-754-7427, http://www.skipark.com. All-day ski passes for adults are $39 on weekends, $25 Monday through Thursday. Kids 8 to 12 pay $20, and kids 7 and younger pay $5.