Dish

Thinking Big

A million dollars -- and a lot of thought -- went into the design of the new Kemble Park Tavern (5125 MacArthur Blvd. NW; 202-966-5125), which replaced Starland Cafe in the Palisades: The tall wingback chairs running down the middle of the dining room offer equal measures of comfort and privacy, while the unisex restroom harbors an antique changing table that's as handsome as it is practical. "We get a ton of kids here," says Jim Foss, the chef and co-owner of the American restaurant, where the menu runs to short-rib sliders, veal ravioli and sea bass.

The (nonedible) showstopper is the tavern's yard-long wooden pepper grinder, which a bunch of us spotted after a guest ordered a Caesar salad. As his server hoisted the heavy, baseball-bat-size mill over the appetizer, the patron looked embarrassed; nearby customers broke into laughter. "You can use it on unruly guests!" one of the onlookers cracked.

Foss, who comes to Kemble Park Tavern from Capital Restaurant Concepts, where he watched over 14 properties as vice president of operations, says he wanted "a wow factor" in his new restaurant. The ginormous grinder, which cost $105, is it. Pepper lovers, be advised: Big as it is, the equipment delivers the same punch as a regular-size grinder.

-- Tom Sietsema