DETAILS: France's Champagne Region

GETTING THERE: The Champagne region is about a two-hour drive from downtown Paris (quicker from Charles de Gaulle International Airport). It's also possible to take a TGV train from Paris to Reims (45 minutes) or a regular train from Paris to Epernay (about 1 hour 20 minutes).

GETTING AROUND: Unless you want to stick to one town and use mass transit or taxis, you'll need a rental car. The local roads are often narrow -- sometimes one lane in rural areas -- but in general not overly twisted or treacherous. We had a portable European GPS, which was a big help in finding more obscure addresses, such as those of small-scale winemakers.

Be sure you have a designated driver, and/or allow time to visit, tour and relax between tastings. We tasted at three wineries over two days and never consumed more than a bottle among the four of us at leisurely meals outside our B&B.

WHEN TO GO: When could Champagne possibly be a bad idea? Nonetheless, some of the big houses close at times during the fall and winter; from spring through summer, there generally are expanded visiting and tasting hours.

WHERE TO STAY: We lodged at the B&B (or chambre d'hote, as the French say) operated by Bruno and Isabelle Mailliard in the village of Saint-Mard-les-Rouffy (38 Rue de Champagne, 011-33-3-26-66-45-03, http://www.bruno-mailliard.com). We paid about $69 per night for a stylish double room with a breakfast that included heavenly warm croissants and pain au chocolat. The young hosts don't speak much English but were accommodating in every way. I found the Mailliards' B&B through the government-run Gites de France system ( http://www.gites-de-france-marne.com).

WHERE TO EAT: The Mailliards will serve a table d'hote dinner on request, which is a family-style meal of three to four courses (appetizer, main, dessert and sometimes cheese) for about $29 per person, including wine. To quaff champagne throughout the meal, add $7.

We had a tasty lunch in Vertus at La Comedia (2 Rue de Chalons), which serves Italian and French dishes, including the heartiest salad (lettuce, tomatoes, smoked duck, foie gras, lardons and cubes of fried potatoes) I've ever eaten; $144 for four, with a bottle of champagne.

We dined in Epernay at La Cave a Champagne (16 Rue Gambetta), which served food that pairs well with champagne, although I didn't think the cuisine was particularly inspired; fixed-price three-course dinner was $46 per person, not including wine.

WHAT TO SIP: Most of the big champagne houses are clustered in Reims and Epernay -- not nestled among the vines as in other wine regions -- because they tend to buy grapes rather than grow their own. It's best to call ahead for a reservation if you're interested in touring; many have English-language tours at specific times of day. You'll find contact information and links for many at http://www.maisons-champagne.com.

At Pommery (5 Place du General Gouraud, Reims, 011-33-3-26-61-62-55, http://www.pommery.com), our tour was about $22 per person, including two flutes of champagne each. The per-bottle price of the wines we sampled ran from about $34 to $48 -- or you could spring for a jumbo-size 1989 salamanazar (equal to 12 normal bottles) for $771.

Like most smaller producers, Doyard-Mahe (Le Moulin d'Argensole, Chemin des Sept Moulins, Vertus, 011-33-3-26-52-23-85) doesn't charge for tasting, but etiquette dictates that you should buy at least one bottle when you taste for free. Its champagne offerings range from about $22 for a delightful bottle of non-vintage brut to $167 for a jeroboam (equal to four normal bottles).

Visit Jean Bliard (41 Rue des Buttes, Hautvillers, 011-33-3-26-59-40-38) only if you speak a bit of French and are willing to invest some time (we spent three hours there). If Bliard takes a liking to you, it will be a memorable experience. He and son Vincent specialize in organic and aged champagnes. We bought a 1995 bottle for $30, but more recent vintages cost less.

When visiting smaller producers, you should phone ahead for an appointment. Not all wineries are open over the weekend; the Epernay tourist office Web site (see below) has a helpful listing of which ones are.

INFO: Reims tourist office (2 Rue Guillaume de Machault, 011-33-3-26-77-45-00, http://www.reims-tourisme.com); Epernay tourist office (7 Ave. de Champagne, 011-33-3-26-53-33-00, http://www.ot-epernay.fr).

-- G.K.