You Ask, and We'll Answer

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Sometimes the question is as simple as "Red or white wine tonight?" This week's picks include one of each. Not only are they delightful drinking on their own, but they aptly illustrate an important point: In most cases, there is no single perfect wine match for a particular dish. Rather, two choices can bring out different aspects of the same dish.

The other night, Andrew was craving a big bacon cheeseburger, while Karen was in the mood for something a little lighter. We compromised by sharing a bacon turkey burger and some fried onion rings. Our respective glasses of wine turned our near-identical plates into two different experiences that were exactly what each of us was craving.

Andrew got his big burger. The 2004 St. Francis Sonoma County "Red" Red Wine ($13) in his glass -- a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and zinfandel -- went beautifully with his ketchup-laden entree, emphasizing the meatiness of the burger and bacon and the earthiness of the onions.

Karen got her way, too. The 2006 René Muré "Tradition" Pinot Blanc ($17) in her glass was perfectly balanced. Its ripe-peach fruitiness filled in the gaps of the naturally lean meat, accented with mustard, while its crisp applelike acidity refreshed the palate after the fried onion rings. The overall experience of the same plate of food was much lighter. The 2006 hits wine store shelves in the coming weeks, but if you see the 2005, grab it; it's slightly softer in flavor, with a delightful caramel aroma.

Sometimes the answer to "red or white?" is a resounding "both."

BUYING WINE

North Carolina's Biltmore Estate wines ( http://www.biltmore.com) are distributed in Alabama, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Kentucky, Maryland, North Carolina, Ohio, South Carolina, Tennessee, Virginia, West Virginia and the District.

Although we indicate suggested retail prices, you can often negotiate a case discount when buying wine in quantity.

Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, award-winning authors of "What to Drink With What You Eat," can be reached through their Web site,http://www.becomingachef.com, or atfood@washpost.com. Please include your name and address for verification purposes, and indicate whether your name can be used if your question is published.