Toronto in Winter: So Cool

* St. Lawrence Market: A farmers market has been at Front and Jarvis streets since 1803. In one of two enclosed buildings is a farmers market on Saturdays and an antiques market on Sundays. A second building, open daily, has 60 specialty markets and is a great place to stroll and pick up a prepared meal and desserts.

Don't miss the potato pancakes or the pirogi at the European Deli, or the tarts at Carousel Bakery.

* Queen Street West: The hippest street in Toronto runs for miles and is lined with cool art galleries, restaurants and small boutiques with cutting-edge fashion, especially for young people, with stores such as "So Hip It Hurts." Find the heart of the neighborhood at the corner of Queen and Spidina, then walk in either direction along Queen.

* Walking tours: There is no better way to come away feeling that you actually know a piece of the city than to go with an expert.

The secrets of Chinatown were unveiled to me by one such expert, Shirley Lum; you'll see things you never guessed were there, and it's worth the price of a tour just to learn what to buy in a Chinese bakery. A 2 1/2 -hour tour for 12 begins at $22 per person. Details: 416-923-6813, http://www.torontowalksbikes.com.

Another guide, Bruce Bell, knows the history of the city cold and will focus on a particular section or give an overview, on foot or by a combination of walking, public transportation and cabs.

If you pass through the Toronto University campus, ask him to show you the "Harry Potter"-like dining room in Hart Hall. Two-hour tours for groups of 12 start at $12 per person. Details: 647-393-8687, http://www.brucebelltours.ca.

Cindy Loose will be online to discuss this story Monday at 2 p.m. during the Travel section's regular weekly chat .