Milk Chocolate Hits Its Stride

Some found this too sweet, but all described such complexities as sassafras, flowers, vanilla and fruit, with "rounded milk chocolate flavor" and a slightly nutty finish.

WITH A TWIST

- Chocolate Bonnat Java 65 percent, 3.5 ounces, $6.99

Tasters liked the addition of coffee flavor, finding it "a bit smoky" and appreciating the "very nice combo of berry notes and cream."

- Scharffen Berger Milk Nibby 41 percent, 3 ounces, $3.99

The addition of cocoa nibs made this the only bar we tasted without a smooth texture. Tasters called it "delicious," "full and fruity" and "highly nuanced," though one complained of "minty undertones."

ON THE DARK SIDE

- Recchiuti Dark Milk Chocolate 55 percent, 4 ounces, $7

Although tasters were impressed by the complex flavors, including spiciness and a "slight coffee nuance," they also found it "not very milky."

- Alter Eco Dark Velvet Chocolate 3.5 ounces, $3.79

Tasters liked the "deep and dark" "fine chocolate bouquet" and the "bitter undertones," calling it "sophisticated" with "grassy, earthy" notes. But it, too, wasn't milky enough for some and "could be better balanced."

Divine, Green & Black's, Endangered Species available at area Whole Foods Markets, http://www.wholefoodsmarket.com. Amedei, Pralus Melissa, Recchiuti available at Biagio, 1904 18th St. NW, 202-328-1506. Bonnat, Scharffen Berger available at the Curious Grape, 4056 S. Campbell Ave., Arlington, 703-671-8700. Alter Eco available at Takoma Park Co-op, 201 Ethan Allen Ave., Takoma Park, 301-891-2667.