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Japanese Show What It Takes To Dazzle the Culinary Judges

Ichiro Ozaki spices fish at his 16-seat restaurant, which in November was awarded one star in the celebrated Michelin Guide's first-ever Tokyo edition.
Ichiro Ozaki spices fish at his 16-seat restaurant, which in November was awarded one star in the celebrated Michelin Guide's first-ever Tokyo edition. (By Blaine Harden -- The Washington Post)
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On his feet for the next five hours, he personally prepares each of the 15 courses that constitute dinner at his restaurant. Each course is devoured in one or two bites. Ozaki works fast. He works relentlessly.

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Since he got his star from Michelin, he's had more customers than he knows what to do with. He's been able to raise his prices just a bit, which helps pay the bills. Dinner is now $150.

His new problem is figuring out how he will manage success over the long run.

"I know only how to sprint," Ozaki said. "I will need to be a marathoner."

So he worries as he works.

The last customer leaves after midnight. Ozaki finishes cleaning up at 1 a.m. Once again, it is too late to go home to his wife and daughter. Once again, he falls dead asleep in the nearby apartment until first light.

Then he starts to make calls about fish.

Special correspondent Akiko Yamamoto contributed to this report.


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