DETAILS: Damascus

The travel warning on the State Department's Web site ( http://travel.state.gov) urges travelers to "thoroughly consider the risks" before traveling to Syria. The department is encouraging U.S. citizens to register at the embassy in Damascus, to avoid crowds and demonstrations and to keep a low profile.

GETTING THERE: There are no nonstop flights from the Washington area to Syria. British Airways flies round-trip to Damascus from Dulles International via London Heathrow starting at $1,266. Air France flights out of Dulles via Charles de Gaulle in Paris start at about $1,220.

GETTING AROUND: Metered taxis are cheap and easy to hail on any busy street; during the day, most trips within the city won't run more than $2. Drivers rarely use the meter at night, and most are stubborn when it comes to negotiating fares. (Don't be surprised to hear that the meter is "broken.") Depending on your Arabic, you may want to haggle, although a better bet is to name a destination, fork over 75 to 100 Syrian pounds (less than $2) when you arrive, and confidently step onto the sidewalk. Few drivers will protest.

While the whizzing bikes and mopeds might suggest otherwise, the Old City is best navigated on foot. The labyrinth of narrow lanes can be overwhelming, but it's never too hard to get your bearings. The main arteries run parallel from east to west, and you can quickly orient yourself on Souk al-Hamidiyeh or Souk Midhat Pasha. When in doubt, ask: Syrians are remarkably friendly and hospitable.

WHERE TO STAY: With an in-house spa, three fine restaurants and elegantly furnished rooms, the Four Seasons Hotel (Shukri al-Quatli Street, 011-963-11-339-1000, http://www.fourseasons.com/damascus; doubles from $285) anchors the upmarket scene in the Embassy District.

For a cozy alternative, the boutique hotel Beit Al Mamlouka (Bab Touma, 011-963-11-543-0445, http://www.almamlouka.com; doubles from $150) features eight intimate rooms in a refurbished 17th-century villa in the Old City's Christian Quarter. Painted wooden ceilings, mosaics and period furnishings are handsome touches, while bedside sweets from the Ghraoui chocolatiers ( http://www.ghraouichocolate.com) add a dash of decadence. Another popular option in the Old City is Talisman (116 Tal El-Hijara Street, 011-963-11-541-5379, http://www.hoteltalisman.net; doubles from $250), down a quiet side street in the Jewish Quarter. Each of the 17 rooms is uniquely designed and appointed with hand-carved antiques.

WHERE TO EAT: There's no shortage of dining options in Damascus, with cheap street food -- falafel sandwiches or bowls of hummus with foul (fava bean paste) -- not likely to set you back more than a dollar or two. For a night out, Beit Jabri (Sawwaf Street) dishes out first-rate mezzes in a splashy courtyard. Dinner for two costs about $10. Leila's Restaurant and Terrace (Muslim Quarter), in the shadow of the Umayyad Mosque, does delicious grills and commands sweeping views of the Old City. Dinner for two costs about $20. Bakdash (Souk al-Hamidiyeh) is probably the most popular place to wind down a day in Damascus; you'll see tourists and locals lined up outside for its famous ice cream. A vanilla cone with pistachio nuts is about $1.

WHAT TO SEE: The richness of sightseeing in the Old City makes it impossible to see everything; wander the souks for a few hours and you're bound to come across an ancient palace or crumbling madrassa (Koranic school) that neatly blends into its surroundings. A few sights are worth seeking out. The Umayyad Mosque (Muslim Quarter) is the best place to start, with its venerable minarets soaring over the Old City. The mosque is one of the Islamic world's holiest; non-Muslims are allowed to tour the compound, though you'll be asked to leave, or wait outside, if you've arrived during Friday prayers. Entry is usually free, though a small fee -- about $1 -- is sometimes requested.

The Souk al-Bzouriyah nearby is renowned for its spices and soaps. Follow it south to the Azem Palace, one of the best examples of traditional Damascene architecture. Built in the 18th century for the Ottoman governor Assad Pasha al-Azem, it's predictably fit for a pasha, with elaborate decor and lavishly painted ceiling and wall paneling. Today it's frequently used for art exhibitions. Admission is about $3.

Farther south is Souk Midhat Pasha, built by an Ottoman governor in the 19th century but part of the Via Recta -- "the street called straight" -- of biblical fame. This was Damascus's main artery during Roman rule, and it's still flanked by two of the city's impressive ancient gates: Bab al-Jabiyah, at the western end, and Bab Sharki, to the east. A 10-minute walk north of Bab Sharki is Bab Touma, the best-preserved of the city's gates. It's also in the heart of the Christian Quarter, which makes it a good place to head for a few drinks after a day of sightseeing.

TIPS: Bargaining in Damascus requires patience, confidence and a flair for theatrics. If you're shopping for souvenirs, prices are always negotiable, and often debated over a cup of tea. Don't be afraid to offer a quarter or less of the initial asking price; shopkeepers will feign offense, but it's all part of the fun. Half the initial asking price is a good target to aim for, and is likely to leave both the buyer and the seller satisfied.

A little Arabic goes a very long way in Damascus. Greeting the locals with "Assalamu alaikum" ("Peace be upon you") is always a reliable icebreaker. Another handy phrase to remember: "la shukran" ("no, thank you"), a polite refusal for the countless offers to see a cousin's rug shop or have a third cup of tea.

INFORMATION: The Syrian Ministry of Tourism's Web site, http://www.syriatourism.org, has good details on visiting Damascus. For visa information: Embassy of Syria, 202-232-6313, http://www.syrianembassy.us.

-- C.V.