By Aliza Green
Wednesday, February 20, 2008 12:00 AM

Makes 3 quarts, about 10 servings

Heat 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in the pot. Add 1 cup diced smoked pork butt (about 1/4 pound; may substitute Canadian bacon, smoked ham or smoked turkey), 1 medium diced onion, 2 sliced ribs celery and 1 diced roasted red pepper; cook until soft. Stir in 2 tablespoons flour and cook for 2 to 3 minutes to get rid of the raw flour taste. Add 1 quart chicken or vegetable broth, 2 medium peeled and shredded (or diced) baking potatoes, 1 teaspoon dried thyme and 1 teaspoon celery seeds or celery salt. Bring to a boil and cook for 10 minutes to soften the potatoes. Add one 14- to 16-ounce package frozen corn kernels, rinsed to remove the frost, and 3 cups milk, half-and-half, light cream or a mixture. Bring back to a boil, stirring often; cook for 10 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Garnish with chopped celery leaves or flat-leaf parsley. (Diced canned potatoes, canned corn and evaporated milk are possible substitutes, but only if you're really stretched for time.)