A Young Italian, Nicely Balanced

Fifth-generation Italian winemaker Luca Currado was contrite. After the first hour of our conversation during his visit to the United States this month, a few mornings after a tasting that introduced his winery's impressive new releases, the passionate 38-year-old apologized to us in his charming Italian accent: "You wanted to talk with me about wine, and I know I talk too much about food."

Our response was as impolite as his apology was gracious: We burst out laughing -- then quickly explained that we were, in fact, kindred spirits in thinking he had his priorities just right.

On many counts, Currado strikes us as remarkably well balanced. On the spectrums of embracing wine or food, tradition or modernity, you no doubt would find him sitting squarely in the middle of each.

Since making its first wines in 1919, his family's Vietti winery has become a well-regarded producer. Its products include a crisp Roero Arneis -- a white varietal virtually lost until Alfredo Currado (Luca's father, considered "the father of Arneis") revived it in 1967 -- and the most alluring Moscato d'Asti we have ever tasted. His reds are famously unfiltered, to better balance their fruit with the Piedmont region's distinctive terroir. We had nearly written off the very earthy and tannic 2004 Vietti Dolcetto d'Alba "Tre Vigne" ($16), which we had tasted at room temperature, as too brooding and intense before we realized we had neglected to follow the advice on the back label: "Serving temperature: 63 degrees." We threw it in the refrigerator for 15 minutes, then tasted it again. The chill miraculously tamed the tannins, bringing out the Dolcetto's delightful cherrylike fruitiness.

But Vietti is arguably best known for its Barbera and its Barolo, which represent yet another spectrum: modesty to nobility. On the latter end, Currado's Barolos shine for special occasions.

At the tasting of Vietti's new releases, we agreed with the assessment of noted wine writer Ed McCarthy, co-author with Mary Ewing-Mulligan of "Italian Wine for Dummies," that Vietti's 2004 Barolos "amazed." McCarthy rated Vietti among the top seven or eight Piedmontese producers of the varietal. The 2004 Vietti Barolo "Brunate" ($120) captivated us with its velvety-smooth texture, well-balanced tannins, cherry fruitiness, chocolate notes and long, lingering finish.

"Barolo is a wine that needs a little more attention, more quiet reflection and the right people," Currado said. "It constantly changes, so you want to be able to taste it the moment you open the bottle, right after you decant it, and again 10, 20 and 60 minutes later," to experience its evolution in the glass.

And Barolo needs the right food, of course. Currado recommends a meat with a bit of gamy character, such as quail or lamb. We tasted it with lamb and a rib-eye steak, both excellent pairings.

During his U.S. visit, Currado was a guest at a private tasting in New York of 25 vintages of Vietti Barolos, from 1961 to the present, for which collectors flew in from as far away as the Cayman Islands and Texas. "It was very emotional," he recalled. "The 1961 was the first single-vineyard cru Barolo ever" -- his family is credited with pioneering the practice of showcasing the grapes of a single vineyard -- "and the last wine my grandfather made."

Other standouts included the 1978, which Currado characterized as "still young," and the 1982, which he deemed "incredible."

Though he obviously prizes his Barolo, Currado is especially proud of his Barbera. "It's the most important, not in terms of prestige, but because in the 18th century at the table, it's what Italian people would drink. Then, it was a lot more famous than Barolo."

He also loves Barbera for its ability to elevate food. "With its bright red fruit and acidity, without food Barbera is fresh and drinkable," he said. "But with food, it's magic: The wine changes. That's why at dinner you should always try the wine first without food, then taste it again. When it interacts with food, it's completely different. The two become one."