Sunday, March 9, 2008

GETTING THERE: Continental has the best connections and fares from Washington to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. Round-trip fare in early April from Reagan National or Dulles is $409, and from BWI, $455.

GETTING AROUND: We used taxis rather than rental cars to get around, reserving a fleet for the whole group for the day when we took excursions to Troncones and other places. A taxi ride from Zihuatanejo to Troncones is generally about $30 plus tip one way; same for Barra de Potosi.

WHERE TO STAY: Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo have an abundance of hotels, motels, inns, B&Bs and villas to choose from in virtually all price ranges. We found our villa through Pacific Vacation Rentals ( http://www.pacificvacation.net) and reserved through owner Andre Chen. Villa Bahia, with gorgeous views of the bay, an infinity pool, outdoor terraces and patios, four bedrooms, five bathrooms and maid and chef services, cost us $1,400 a night in high season, or about $100 a night per person, with laundry service thrown in. For more information: Andre Chen, 214-808-0010 or 972-241-0624, or e-mail info@pacificvacation.net.

WHERE TO EAT: In Zihuatanejo, Coconuts (Pasaje Agustin Ramirez No. 1. El Centro) sits off a cobblestone street in a whitewashed old building, the oldest in town, built in 1865. The private garden, shaded by coconut palm trees, is a real oasis from the heat and noise of the city's central shopping district. It's lit by soft lantern light in the evening. Try the gazpacho for lunch ($5) or the shrimp tacos (tacos de camaron) for about $8. La Sirena Gorda (on the Playa Municipal next to the pier on the Paseo del Pescador) is a great place for breakfast, with everything from eggs and omelets to yogurt and granola ($2-$5.50). Casa Bahia (El Almacen), with its roof deck and open-air bar and restaurant, has one of the best views of the city and the bay and is a great place for a sunset cocktail.

WHAT TO DO:

* Snorkel. At Manzanillo Beach, guide Hector Olea runs tours out of Zihuatanejo. Ask for him down at the pier or look for him at Casa Marina in the mornings or at Coconuts (see above), his unofficial office, in the evenings. Our day of snorkeling, with unlimited drinks and lunch included, ran us about $40 each for the adults and teens, plus tip. It was free for the two younger boys.

* Kayak. Zoe Kayak Tours (011-52-755-553-0496, http://www.zoekayaktours.com) offers guided kayak trips through Barra de Potosi for $80. Guide Brian Roach has an encyclopedic knowledge of local birds, history and colorful characters.

* Beach it at any one of the gorgeous white-sand beaches. Parasailing, jet skis, catamaran cruises and party boats are big in Ixtapa and at Playa La Ropa in Zihuatanejo. Snorkeling is best at Las Gatas in Zihuatanejo, nearby Manzanillo Beach and Isla Ixtapa. Ricardo Rojas or one of the therapists with Sanrick's Massage give great beach-side massages for about $30 to $40. For surfing, take a taxi to Troncones; lessons are available at the Inn at Manzanillo Bay (011-52-755-553-2884, http://www.manzanillobay.com).

* Petatlan, in the mountains an hour south of Zihuatanejo, has beautiful gold and silver jewelry, as well as a famous Catholic church.

* Shop. We liked La Zapoteca (on the Paseo del Pescador) for colorful woven rugs and hammocks; Casa de Tierra (Heroico Colegio Militar No. 120) for furniture; Abel & Julia (Calle Nicolas Bravo 33) for sterling silver jewelry; and the Artisan's Market and Mercado Municipal (Artesanias Mexicanas, 1 Avenida 5 de Mayo) and Arte Mexicano Nopal (56 Avenida 5 de Mayo.

INFORMATION: Zihuatanejo-Ixtapa Mexico Visitors Guide, http://www.zihuatanejo.net. Ixtapa-Zihuatanejo, http://www.ixtapa-zihuatanejo.com. Visit Mexico, http://www.visitmexico.com. Or check out the local English-language magazine, Another Day in Paradise, http://www.adip.info.

-- B.S.