Gee Whiz, Cheesesteak Isn't Philly's Best Sub

A pork sandwich from Tony Luke's, a Philadelphia eatery. (Tim Warren - The Washington Post)

The sandwich at Tony Luke's was my favorite, but DiNic's was a close second. DiNic's gives you the option of roasted peppers; I declined so as to concentrate on the rabe and the provolone.

It was lunchtime and the place was packed, mainly with beefy guys thoughtfully chewing their sandwiches. (Philadelphia must lead the nation in the number of beefy guys per capita.) At one point, a fellow walked past me, pointed to my sub and told his companion, "Hey, I think I'll have one of those."

She grabbed his arm and said sharply, "No, you won't. You'll just throw up."

Once again, a case of genius denied.

John's, also in South Philly, was a bit of a letdown. Its roast pork sandwich, which has been rated No. 1 in the city in some media polls, was a trifle dry, and I couldn't accept the sandwich's being served on a kaiser roll. But it was still a fine sub, and I loved the unpretentious atmosphere in this classic lunchroom, with regulars being greeted by their first names as they picked up their subs. Were this place near my house, I'd request a lifetime pass.

On the way home, I swung by Pat's, which is nearby, to get a cheesesteak for my still unconverted 18-year-old son (his order: "Whiz, wit'out"). Out of curiosity, I took a couple of bites.

Not even close.