DETAILS: Irish Food

Here are details for some of the restaurants, markets, B&B dining rooms and other sources for meals in the West of Ireland described in the story.

* Trattoria Pasta Mista, 12 Quay St., Galway City. Delicious, mainly southern Italian cuisine served by a knowledgeable and attentive staff. Two can eat well, with a bottle of good house wine, for less than $100.

* The Market, Churchyard Street, Galway City. Saturday mornings into afternoons, vendors from all over the West bring their wares here: great cheeses, bread, seafood, produce, chocolates and sweets.

* Gourmet Tart Co., 7 Lower Abbeygate St., Galway City. A boutique bakery with pastries running about $4.

* Front Door, 3 High St., Galway City. A good, classic pub lunch for two runs about $25.

* Pizza Cabin, Dominick Street, Galway City. When you're at Monroe's Pub, take a break from the music to order from this hole-in-the-wall joint. Pizza for two, about $10.

* O'Cee's Coffee Shop, Shop Street, Westport, County Mayo. As odd as it is comforting, it's more cafeteria than coffee shop and it's attached to a supermarket. Food is first-rate and inexpensive. Fresh-baked scones are especially fine, and with two coffees, about $5.

* Everest, South Mall, Westport. Sensational Indian/Nepalese food. About $40 for two at lunch, $75 for dinner.

* Connemara Hamper, Lower Market Street, Clifden, County Galway. A gourmet deli featuring Irish cheeses exclusively and a great selection of European fare, including wine.

* E.J. Kings, Main and Market Streets, Clifden. Open since 1832, there's a reason it has lasted so long. Laid-back, great food and traditional Irish music most nights. Soup, two crab sandwiches, two pints of beer or cider runs $30 to $40.

* Marconi Restaurant, Main Street, Clifden. The food here reinvents what Irish cooking did best. Two dine very well, with a bottle of Beaujolais, for about $110.

* Keogh's, Main Street, Kinvara, County Galway. A pub with no case of the cutes: a local gathering place, watering hole and eatery. The seafood chowder is the best in the West.

WHERE TO STAY

* The Ivies, One Montpelier Terrace, Sea Road, Galway City, 011-353-91-583257, http://www.the-ivies.com. Inexpensive, comfortable and a five-minute walk to the great goings-on of Galway City. Have the "cooked" Irish breakfast in the charming and peaceful breakfast room. B&B starts at about $46 per person.

* Quay House, Beach Road, Clifden, Connemara, County Galway, 011-353-95-21369, http://www.thequayhouse.com. One of the most luxurious and unique places to stay in Ireland. Breakfast is an event. Doubles start at $230 a night.

* Drumcreehy Guest House, Ballyvaughan, County Clare, 011-353-65-7077377, http://www.drumcreehyhouse.com. This newly built country house is comfortable throughout, but insist on one of the larger rooms in the front. A good base for Burren adventures. Breakfast here is varied and extensive. Take courage, have the black pudding. B&B is $60 per person. -- A.C.