By David Hagedorn
Special to The Washington Post
Wednesday, March 19, 2008
Vegetable dishes at holiday dinners get so little attention, they might as well be seated at the children's table.
I say this year we let them upstage the big boys. Leave the lamb, ham and turkey in the wings, and put the veggies front and center -- especially ones that can be made well in advance.
The main attraction, Mushroom Lasagna Bolognese, looks deceptively simple in its casserole dish. Once cut, it is striking: multiple layers of noodles, rich sauce, cheese and a vegetarian version of the famous Italian meat sauce. This one derives its complexity and richness from a "low and slow" melding of porcini, portobello, shiitake and cremini mushrooms.
Side dishes of slow-cooker smoky Roman beans and chipotle-infused greens come together with minimal effort. Main course and sides all develop richer flavors with a day's rest in the refrigerator. The quick corn muffins, made moist with shredded carrots, are frosted with mascarpone cheese to look like special-occasion cupcakes.
Time to stake your claims, vegetarians. Haven't you had enough of the ham hogging all the glory?
David Hagedorn's Chef on Call column appears monthly in Food.
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