Searching Her Past, Finding His Presence

The talking never stopped. Paola wanted to hear all about Bill Clinton, for some reason, while Uncle Joe spoke of having had "the honor" to be a prisoner of war held by the Americans during World War II. His love affair with America, it seems, had begun with the way he was treated by our soldiers. He talked much about what he referred to as "crazy Italian politics." And then, as that whole, long, perfect day came to a close, he reminded me to "recordo . . . recordo."

On our final morning, both the American and Sicilian branches of the family tree drove to Messina and saw the fantastic clock tower at the Cathedral of the Annunciation, which was rebuilt after a devastating earthquake and tidal wave in 1908. It now houses the largest astrological clock the world, its chimes and mechanical figures putting on a show each day at noon.

From there, we had a light lunch before traveling in the family van to Taormina, which, despite having been a resort town since the time of ancient Greece, still possesses one of the loveliest beaches in Sicily. It hugs the cliffs of Monte Tauro, which were dotted with villas and cascading flowers, and offers a spectacular view of the sea far below.

As we drove back to Messina, listening to the radio the whole way, the van was filled with laughter and relatives in equal measure. All at once I heard a familiar voice: Tina Turner singing "Proud Mary." Everyone began to sing, the Sicilians not knowing what they were singing and the Americans knowing but singing anyway. It was crazy fun to be with them.

The entire family drove us to the airport the next morning. They wanted to go through security with us; we explained that it was not permitted. Promising to e-mail and send pictures regularly, we said our "ciaos" and begged them to come to America.

And every evening the house is filled with laughter and relatives in equal measure. Daddy talks about America. Although we aren't rich, I think they believe we are. He proudly tells them all about his wonderful life in Washington, begging them to visit.

Linda Puglisi Zanelotti is assistant to the dean of students at Paul VI Catholic High School in Fairfax. She lives in Chantilly.