Step Up to the Plate

Tom Youell, left, collects his order at the stadium's Ben's Chili Bowl concession, where lines were long on Opening Day. (Gerald Martineau - The Washington Post)

Fans went out of their way to praise local vendors. "We were so happy to see Hard Times here," said Christy and Cian Chang of Sterling, who were carrying a $33 order of wings with hot sauce, two chili dogs and nachos.

The grandson of Walter Johnson, a famed Washington Senator and Washington baseball's biggest legend, gave a nod to the food purveyor with the longest local presence. "How great to have Gifford's here," said Hank Thomas. Gifford's Ice Cream, in business locally since 1938, was passing out free samples of its famed soft caramels and selling 10 flavors of its ice cream. Thomas, a lifelong baseball fan who lives in Arlington, has spent 20 years in food service. What rankled him was a stadium hit -- big-kerneled popcorn being popped on the premises -- being turned into an error by over-salting. "My mouth feels like it won't taste anything for a week!" he said.

Baseball- and Washington-theme titles graced many of the concession stands: Steak of the Union, Senators Sausages, Change Up Chicken, Slice Down the Line.

There were some surprises. Few stalls dealt in ethnic foods, which have become mainstays at other major league parks. The selection of beers on tap was better than expected, as was the polite and plentiful service. The condiment tables often included Old Bay seasoning and malt vinegar. Hand-turned dispensers let you twirl raw onions onto your hot dog to your stomach's content. But there was no brown mustard. And the Nats Dog, a big cut above the unfairly famed Dodger Dog, had a terrible bun: pure cotton ball.

Most of the errors appear fixable. Lay off the popcorn salt, find better buns for all dogs and burgers, skip the pricey, unappetizing crab cakes and improve the pizza.

But overall, fans seem to have a lot to smile about from the Nats' concourse fare. It will undoubtedly stay true, however, that some of the longest lines, after Ben's, will remain at the PNC cash machines.

Margaret Engel is the co-author of three editions of Fodor's "Ballpark Vacations" and has reviewed baseball stadiums coast to coast.