Wednesday, April 9, 2008

Cork, 1720 14th St. NW, 202-265-2675; http://www.corkdc.com.

There seems no end to Washington's thirst for wine bars. A small, sexy space and a long list of wines by the glass is a license to print money. Cork, the newest arrival on 14th Street, happily does more than just fill up your glass. The menu is full of tantalizing small plates, cheeses and charcuterie. But none is more inventive than the house-cured trout. The fish is cured overnight with sugar, salt, juniper berries, lemon zest and cloves, then cooked over low heat. Served alongside is a fresh fennel salad tossed with a light tangerine vinaigrette and hazelnuts ($9). Try it with a pinot blanc or glass of bubbly.

-- Jane Black

Know of a dish that's worth the trip? E-mail food@washpost.com.