The Cutest Baby in the Bunch

Most baby vegetables are small because we make them that way. A cute three-inch-long zucchini is the result of an intervention. If not harvested at that size, it would grow as big as your thigh. A mini pumpkin stays mini, but only because it has been programmed to do so by a modern breeder.

Currant tomatoes, on the other hand, are tiny because they are ancient and relatively un-tampered with. They look the way the first tomatoes probably looked -- clusters of delicious little fruits no larger than large blueberries (or currants, hence the name). Cherry tomatoes look jumbo by comparison. Considered by some to be a distinct species, Lycopersicon pimpinellifolium, the currant type is extremely prolific. The plants, laden with hundreds of berries, are very vigorous and disease-resistant. They can even withstand a few light frosts.

The stems are thin and lax. All vining tomatoes are floppy, but these are almost impossible to stake. An excellent way to manage them is to let them festoon a fence or ramble over a low stone wall. They're best grown off by themselves anyway, as they tend to crowd other garden plants and self-sow with abandon. Since they cross-pollinate readily with other tomatoes, it's best to keep them at a distance of at least 50 feet if you plan to save seeds.

Picking currant tomatoes can be tedious, but well worth it for their rich, concentrated flavor. They look gorgeous sprinkled over salad or as a garnish for any summer dish. Try them atop peach ice cream. They can also be dried to make sweet tomato raisins.

To some extent, currant tomatoes have been selected or bred for various traits, particularly color. The standard red type can be found at a number of seed companies, including John Scheepers ( http://www.kitchengardenseeds.com). There are also yellow varieties such as Gold Currant from Tomato Fest ( http://www.tomatofest.com). White varieties such as Little White Rabbit from Amishland Heirloom Seeds ( http://www.amishlandseeds.com) are actually somewhere between yellow and cream. A mix of colors in a bowl would be the hit of a summer party. Some currant tomatoes are more prone to dropping their fruits. Tomato Fest's Hawaiian Currant holds onto its fruit until the whole cluster is ripe.

There is still time to buy seeds to start indoors, or order plants in three-inch pots from White Flower Farm ( http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com). They are shipped in mid- to late April, but the gardener can hold them in a protected spot if warm tomato-planting weather gets held up in traffic.