Saigonique Will Transport You

At first glance: Saigonique, in the west end of Shirlington Village facing Signature Theatre, is extremely handsome and visually witty. The marbled crimson walls are lined with stations that display slightly comic wooden figurines of Asian musicians. The ceiling is hung with canvas swags like those that shade Vietnamese outdoor cafes, and the large palm fans sway gently as if invisible overhead servants provided the air conditioning. A "happy Buddha" waves you down the hallway to the restrooms, which are lit -- like Signature's staircase, which is visible at dusk across the courtyard -- with shifting mood lighting. The tables are set with celadon-glazed servers and brilliant red chopsticks as well as striking modern flatware. The background music is Asian-style instrumental versions of soft-rock classics at a nice volume for conversation.

On the menu: This three-month-old offshoot of Bethesda's Green Papaya (and, a restaurant generation before that, of Arlington's Little Viet Garden) takes many of its cues from its parents, but some dishes are more authentically spicier than at most Vietnamese restaurants. Portions are American-size, so leftovers are a strong possibility.

At your service: Service is extremely polite ("It was my honor to serve you tonight"), but waiters tend to hover then disappear, especially when a larger party arrives.

On the table: An appetizer of minced clams with black sesame rice cracker is impressive. The seasoned clams are like a large seviche inside the "cracker," which is the size of those giant tortilla chips that taco salads sometimes come in. Though it's a little messy to crack apart, the result is tasty.

The roast quail appetizer (three to four halves of birds over salad) is grilled until the skin almost glazes. Crispy spring rolls have a meaty stuffing of pork, shrimp and crab. Banh xeo, the half-moon "golden pancake" of turmeric-tinted batter stuffed with bean sprouts, shrimp and chicken, is a fun appetizer for the table. It's traditionally eaten wrapped in lettuce leaves and dipped in vinegar sauce, but lettuce had to be specially requested.

Some of the best entrees at Saigonique are the "caramel" ones, which are not the cloying condensed milk casseroles of other restaurants but chicken (or the richer duck or shrimp) with a deep reddish-brown sauce tangy with black pepper and nuoc mam (fermented fish sauce) and fragrant with lemon grass.

Bu luc lak (or "shaking beef") is the Vietnamese stir-fried take on beef hash: marinated beef, seared onions and browned potatoes with a sauce of lemon juice spiked with salt and pepper. It's usually made with flank steak, but some nights a version with filet mignon is available.

Traditional bun bo xao is a layered dish with a dressed salad on the bottom, vermicelli over that and then stir-fried marinated beef on top. At Saigonique, the beef and noodles were combined but the salad was separate.

What to avoid: Mi xao mem, soft noodles with slices of beef, chicken, shrimp and mixed veggies, was tossed in a blandish brown sauce. A dish of ginger noodles with stir-fried veggies, though marked with one chili, was so delicate in flavor one expected it to retire to its bed.

Wet your whistle: The restaurant's application for a liquor license is pending.

Saigonique 4251 Campbell Ave., Shirlington Phone:703-575-9797 Kitchen hours: Monday-Friday 11:30-3 and 5-10, Saturday noon-10, Sunday noon-9:30 Dinner prices: Appetizers $4-$13; entrees $12-$18. Wheelchair access: Good.