DETAILS: Ecuador

GETTING THERE: There are no nonstop flights to Quito, Ecuador, from Washington. I flew American Airlines, connecting in Miami, for a total of about 10 hours in transit (6 1/2 hours in the air). The airline is currently quoting a round-trip fare of $680 for travel in May, $787 in June.

GETTING AROUND: If you're not up to traveling the countryside by bus or maneuvering mountain roads by yourself, the best bet is to hire a car and driver, since Ecuador has no central train system. I made arrangements through my innkeepers, using Quito as a base; in all cases the drivers were professional and courteous, in some cases doubling as guides (although most spoke limited English). From Quito to Hacienda Cusin was $70 for two; from Cusin to La Cienega, $120. To reach Cuenca, in the southern Sierra, from Quito, I flew Aerogal ( http://www.aerogal.com.ec) for $145 round trip.

HACIENDAS: Dozens of haciendas and ranches can be found throughout the Ecuadoran highlands, many with luxury features (spas, gourmet restaurants) and activities (horseback riding, trekking). For more information, see box at right.

I loved Hacienda Cusin (San Pablo del Lago, Imbabura, telephone 011-593-6-291-8013, http://www.haciendacusin.com; U.S. agent Myths & Mountains, 800-670-6984, http://www.mythsandmountains.com), about 90 minutes north of Quito. Set at the foot of the Imbabura volcano, it has lovely grounds, art- and antiques-filled rooms (most with fireplaces), a helpful staff and a wealth of activities; doubles $105 a night.

Hosteria La Cienega (Lasso, 011-593-3-271-9052, http://www.hosterialacienega.com), 90 minutes south of Quito outside Cotopaxi National Park, has more of a formal feel. It's one of the country's oldest haciendas, dating from the late 17th century. My room was pretty bare-bones, but the hacienda proper has lovely period details, including a chapel, six-foot walls of volcanic stone and an inner courtyard, and the restaurant was lively, with nightly musical performances; doubles $77 a night.

WHERE ELSE TO STAY: There's a great variety of lodging choices in Quito in all price ranges, but two downtown hotels stand out for character and good value. Hotel Cafe Cultura (Reina Victoria 513, 011-593-2-222-4271, http://www.cafecultura.com), in a whitewashed, post-colonial building with a terra cotta roof, has whimsical frescoes, a paneled library, fireplaces throughout and 26 eclectically decorated rooms. It's near shops and restaurants (and has a wonderful, atmospheric restaurant of its own) and is a popular gathering spot for locals, expats and visitors; doubles from $99. Hotel La Cartuja (Leonidas Plaza 170, 011-593-2-252-3721, http://www.hotelacartuja.com), housed in the former British embassy, has an inner courtyard and 12 simple but clean rooms; $46 a night double.

In Cuenca, Mansion Alcazar (Calle Simon Bolivar 12-55, 011-593-7-282-3918, http://www.mansionalcazar.com), in a restored 19th-century house once owned by the president of Ecuador, is a true find: a world-class, elegant boutique hotel with an enclosed courtyard, rear garden, sumptuous lobby and marble bathrooms, with doubles from $171.

WHERE TO EAT: In Quito, Cafe Cultura (see above) has innovative, healthful gourmet fare in an arty setting; soup, salad and vegetable crepes for two ran about $30. In Cuenca, don't miss El Maiz (Calle Larga 1-279), which uses traditional ingredients in its Andean-inspired dishes, such as quimbolitos (sweet cornmeal dough with cheese), baked quinoa with cheese, and chicken with pumpkin seeds; lunch for two was about $16. Guajibamba (Luis Cordero 12-32) is a good place to sample the national dish, cuy (guinea pig), but call ahead so they can put it on the spit for you; dinner for two is about $18.

STREET MARKETS: You can find indigenous craft and food markets just about every day of the week in towns and villages throughout the Andes. Otavalo, two hours north of Quito, is the most famous, with block after block of textiles, jewelry, paintings, clothing, hats, rugs, sculptures, woodcarvings, hammocks, ceramics, food and much more. It's held most days, but Saturday has the most variety.

Other well-known markets: Ambato (Mondays), Latacunga (Tuesdays and Saturdays), Pujili (Sundays and Wednesdays), Saquisili (Thursdays), Cuenca (Thursdays), Parque El Ejido, Quito (Saturdays and Sundays). For details, see the sites below.

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