Haciendas: Staying in Style

Ecuador's Andes region is dotted with haciendas (also called hosterias), huge estates established by wealthy Spaniards in the 16th and 17th centuries that in recent years have opened their doors as inns. In addition to allowing visitors a taste of colonial life with their centuries-old architecture and antiques, they offer activities such as horseback riding, bird-watching and trekking, and luxury touches such as spas. Rates are for two people and usually include breakfast. Among the best, going from north to south:

· HACIENDA PRIMAVERA, http://www.haciendaprimavera.com. Location: El Choco Rainforest Reserve Park, 90 minutes north of Otavalo. Known for: Eco-friendly atmosphere. Set in the lush tropical surroundings of a cloud forest, it has been owned by the same family for 90 years. Offers hiking, white-water rafting, bird-watching. $80 a night.

· HACIENDA PINSAQUI, http://www.haciendapinsaqui.com. Location: Imbabura, two hours north of Quito. Known for: Location at the base of Imbabura volcano. "The Liberator" Simón Bolívar frequently stayed here. Built in 1790, it has 16 suites, each with a fireplace. Horseback riding, swimming in mountain lakes and mountain biking available. $130 a night.

· LA MIRAGE, http://www.mirage.com.ec. Location: Cotocachi, 90 minutes north of Quito. Known for: Having the fanciest spa in the country. (It's a member of the Relais & Chateaux group of luxury hotels.) Its 23 rooms are decorated with Ecuadoran and European art and antiques, and each room has a fireplace. $350 a night.

· HACIENDA ZULETA, http://www.zuleta.com. Location: Otavalo, two hours north of Quito. Known for: Zuleteño horses, a cross of Spanish-Andalusian, English and quarter horses. A working farm that allows visitors to visit its cheese and dairy factory, embroidery workshop run by the Zuleta Indians, trout farms and condor rehabilitation center. Eleven rooms with fireplaces and antiques. $250 a night (includes all meals).

· HACIENDA CUSIN, http://www.haciendacusin.com. Location: San Pablo del Lago, about 90 minutes north of Quito. Known for: Location at the foot of the Imbabura volcano. Its 44 rooms, with mountain views and fireplaces, are whimsically decorated with murals and textiles from the region. Lush gardens, stables, gourmet dining. $105 a night.

· HOSTERIA LA CIENEGA, http://www.hosterialacienega.com. Location: Lasso, 90 minutes south of Quito. Known for: Location outside Cotopaxi National Park, which includes one of the highest active volcanoes in the world. Dating from the late 17th century, it's more formal than some of the other haciendas, with its own ornate chapel; some of the 32 rooms are unspectacular, but others have great architectural details. Nineteenth-century scientist Alexander von Humboldt stayed here. Guides are available for touring the park, nearby Quilatoa Lake and Latacunga market. $77 a night.

· HACIENDA SAN AGUSTIN DE CALLO, http://www.incahacienda.com. Location: Cotopaxi, 75 minutes south of Quito. Known for: Its setting on the site of an Inca palace, an important archaeological site. Eight guest rooms have kitchens and living rooms. Hiking, trekking, mountain biking and visits to nearby markets in Pujili and Saquisili are available. $198 to $350 a night.

-- K.C.S.