Some Makers Can't Be Labeled

Dr. Konstantin Frank: Best known for its Riesling, Dr. Frank makes other crisp, refreshing whites ideal for spring sipping, including the unusual 2006 Dr. Konstantin Frank Rkatsiteli ($20), which tastes like a blend of Riesling, Gewuerztraminer, Gruener Veltliner and New Zealand sauvignon blanc.

Iron Horse Vineyards: Iron Horse makes our favorite domestic sparkling wines, but its full-bodied chardonnays have their own appeal. You'll find rounded flavors of pear and a hint of grapefruit curd in the 2006 Iron Horse UnOaked Chardonnay ($26). The French-oaked 2006 Iron Horse Estate Chardonnay ($28) features exuberant coconut on its long finish. The latter employs water-bent (as opposed to the usual fire-bent) barrels, which winemaker Joy Sterling characterizes as "more flattering to our fruit."

Kendall-Jackson Winery: K-J is almost synonymous with chardonnay, but it has a terrific syrah in the full-bodied 2005 Kendall-Jackson Vintner's Reserve California Syrah ($12), which is ripe with blackberry fruitiness and notes of black pepper.

Morgan Winery: Best known for its pinot noir, Morgan is well worth checking out for its refreshing, light-bodied and tropical-fruity 2006 Morgan Sauvignon Blanc ($15), composed primarily of sauvignon musque (a sauvignon blanc clone) with added Semillon and sauvignon blanc.

Penfolds: Penfolds may make the single best shiraz on the planet, but it would be a shame to miss sampling its racy, bone-dry and mineral-laden 2007 Penfolds Bin 51 Riesling ($20), especially with oysters.

Shafer Vineyards: The maker of one of our very favorite merlots turns out to have a special way with chardonnay, too. Its 2006 Shafer Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay ($48) is made without malolactic fermentation, the secondary fermentation process that results in softer lactic acidity and, often, a buttery aroma. This beautifully balanced chardonnay exhibits a lively natural acidity and minerality along with bright apple and apricot flavors.

If you still have your doubts, give a few of these a try anyway. You might turn up some delicious surprises.

Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, award-winning authors of "What to Drink With What You Eat," can be reached through their Web site, http://www.becomingachef.com, or at food@washpost.com.